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Wolf Rock

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Great Arch, The 
South East Face 
South Gullies 

Wolf Rock  


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Location: 44.30246, -122.15339 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 38,600
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: corvegas on May 14, 2006
Forecast:
Today

64-93°F
Sat

64-95°F
Sun

63-85°F
Mon

60-79°F
Tue

52-77°F
Wed

45-75°F
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Wolf Rock pic taken from base on Route 15. Much m...

Description 

Largest monolith in Oregon home to some decent basalt sport as well as trad climbs. This is where the infamous Barad-Dur (III 5.9 A2 or 5.11A) Is, as well as possibly the only grade V in Oregon "Pooh Corner - V 5.9 A3".

Admin Note: Some of the best information available on Wolf Rock was through Tyler Adams (he added this page to MP). He was instrumental in adding many of the routes, and rebolting many dangerous routes with new bolts as well.
He sadly passed away in 2014 in a tragic plane accident, but his work lives on via his blog that he kept very updated. The link to the blog is below:
oregonchoss.blogspot.com/

Getting There 

From Eugene, follow 126 East for roughly 35 minutes. At the Blue River Reservoir sign (past the first two signs you see for the Blue River), take a left onto Forest Route 15. You will pass H.J. Andrew's Experimental Forest on your right. About .3 of a mile past that, Route 15 forks to the right. Follow that, and continue for 8.1 miles to another fork on Route 15. STAY RIGHT AGAIN!! From this fork, Wolf Rock is roughly 1.4 miles up on the left. You can't miss it. Park at one of the two small pullouts on the south side of the road.

See the photos below for a Google maps image with correct turn by turn directions from the HWY.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.4 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wolf Rock:
South Gully   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, 1000'   South Gullies
Barad Dur   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 8 pitches   The Great Arch
Browse More Classics in Wolf Rock

Featured Route For Wolf Rock
Alex Mittelholzer following second pitch of Space ...

Coreolis Effect 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a OR : Willamette Valley : ... : South East Face
Great route. First and second pitch are bolted. Slightly run-out bolts (and sometimes hard to see) on second pitch but otherwise straightforward. Third pitch on is mixed bolt and pro....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Wolf Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Descending the South west Gullies
Descending the South west Gullies
Wolf Rock Directions. Thanks to Topher for making ...
BETA PHOTO: Wolf Rock Directions. Thanks to Topher for making ...
Wolf Rock SE Face Topo (included Morgal Vale). Dra...
BETA PHOTO: Wolf Rock SE Face Topo (included Morgal Vale). Dra...
Routes that top out on Wolf Rock
Routes that top out on Wolf Rock
Arch Topo. drawing by Tyler.
BETA PHOTO: Arch Topo. drawing by Tyler.
Morgal Vale Topo, drawing by Tyler Adams
BETA PHOTO: Morgal Vale Topo, drawing by Tyler Adams
Wolf Rock South Face Topo. Drawing by Tyler Adams....
BETA PHOTO: Wolf Rock South Face Topo. Drawing by Tyler Adams....

Comments on Wolf Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Nov 18, 2008
For the sake of not getting lost, here are some better directions:

From Eugene, follow 126 East for roughly 35 minutes. At the Blue River Reservoir sign (past the first two signs you see for the Blue River), take a left onto Forest Route 15. You will pass H.J. Andrew's Experimental Forest on your right. About .3 of a mile past that, Route 15 forks to the right. Follow that, and continue for 8.1 miles to another fork on Route 15. STAY RIGHT AGAIN!! From this fork, Wolf Rock is roughly 1.4 miles up on the left. You can't miss it. Park at one of the two small pullouts on the south side of the road.

The majority of the forest service road is a single lane gravel road, but it is good shape.
By burlap submariner
Sep 11, 2009
Anybody have a topo/descriptions for the free variant to babra/dur?????
By StrongArm
From: Bend, Oregon
Feb 14, 2010
Barad-Dur: I completed this route on September 25, 2003. Barad-Dur is the best hard adventure route I've done in Oregon. I under-estimated the length of the route after the described pitches, it keeps going to the summit and the walk off is not easy. It didn't help that we climbed it on a hot, muggy day and ran out of water. We linked the first 2 pitches. The route's 2 crux pitches (4th and 5th) are very well protected and go at short, bouldery 10+ and 11- respectively. Every other pitch is pretty dirty and/or mossy, what I call "Oregon style", and a little spicy for the grade with a few 1/4 inch bolts. Great climb, no other people anywhere, easy access and camping along the FS road at the base. Take a single set of gear to #3 Camalot, no RPs or super small wires are necessary.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Feb 19, 2011
I got off route on Barad-Dur and both hand holds blew at the same time (I was conservatively 20ft above my last "pro").

In other words, typical Oregon climbing.

Pack a pair of balls and be prepared to shave after the route. It'll grow hair in new places!
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Feb 19, 2011
BTW if anyone has a topo for Big Bad Wolf, please let me know!!!
By Climber.H
From: Oregon
Mar 13, 2015
Heading up there soon, any current info about the condition of the place or stuff we all should know?
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 13, 2015
Should be mostly dry. The upper routes can get seepy, but the Arch ones should stay fairly dry, especially with this winter we've had. I don't Wolf ever got snow to really stick this winter.
By Alex Alaniz
Jul 21, 2015
Hello. I'm looking for some beta on a route called Morgul Vale on Wolf Rock.

Does anyone have a topo that they'd be willing to share?
What is the runout situation? Any trad gear necessary?

Thanks for your help!
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jul 21, 2015
I added a couple topo's by Tyler Adams, including one of Morgal Vale. Its a bit hard to follow if you don't know the area, but look for the well bolted slab start to it left of Barard Dur (5.3 grade).
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