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Wolf Rock

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Great Arch, The 
South East Face 
South Gullies 

Wolf Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.30246, -122.15339 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,222
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: corvegas on May 14, 2006
Forecast:
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Wolf Rock pic taken from base on Route 15. Much m...

Description 

Largest monolith in Oregon home to some decent basalt sport as well as trad climbs. This is where the infamous Barad-Dur (III 5.9 A2 or 5.11A) Is, as well as possibly the only grade V in Oregon "Pooh Corner - V 5.9 A3".

Admin Note: Some of the best information available on Wolf Rock was through Tyler Adams (he added this page to MP). He was instrumental in adding many of the routes, and rebolting many dangerous routes with new bolts as well.
He sadly passed away in 2014 in a tragic plane accident, but his work lives on via his blog that he kept very updated. The link to the blog is below:
oregonchoss.blogspot.com/

Getting There 

From Eugene, follow 126 East for roughly 35 minutes. At the Blue River Reservoir sign (past the first two signs you see for the Blue River), take a left onto Forest Route 15. You will pass H.J. Andrew's Experimental Forest on your right. About .3 of a mile past that, Route 15 forks to the right. Follow that, and continue for 8.1 miles to another fork on Route 15. STAY RIGHT AGAIN!! From this fork, Wolf Rock is roughly 1.4 miles up on the left. You can't miss it. Park at one of the two small pullouts on the south side of the road.

See the photos below for a Google maps image with correct turn by turn directions from the HWY.

Climbing Season

For the Willamette Valley area.

Weather station 6.4 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wolf Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wolf Rock:
South Gully   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, 1000'   South Gullies
Right Corner Arete   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   The Great Arch
The Morgul Vale   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   South East Face
Cold Shut   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Great Arch
Barad Dur   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 8 pitches   South East Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wolf Rock

Featured Route For Wolf Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Mittelholzer following second pitch of Space ...

Coreolis Effect 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a OR : Willamette Valley : ... : South East Face
Great route. First and second pitch are bolted. Slightly run-out bolts (and sometimes hard to see) on second pitch but otherwise straightforward. Third pitch on is mixed bolt and pro....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Wolf Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending the South west Gullies
Descending the South west Gullies
Rock Climbing Photo: Wolf Rock Directions. Thanks to Topher for making ...
BETA PHOTO: Wolf Rock Directions. Thanks to Topher for making ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wolf Rock SE Face Topo (included Morgal Vale). Dra...
BETA PHOTO: Wolf Rock SE Face Topo (included Morgal Vale). Dra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes that top out on Wolf Rock
Routes that top out on Wolf Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Arch Topo. drawing by Tyler.
BETA PHOTO: Arch Topo. drawing by Tyler.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morgal Vale Topo, drawing by Tyler Adams
BETA PHOTO: Morgal Vale Topo, drawing by Tyler Adams
Rock Climbing Photo: Wolf Rock South Face Topo. Drawing by Tyler Adams....
BETA PHOTO: Wolf Rock South Face Topo. Drawing by Tyler Adams....

Comments on Wolf Rock Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 14, 2016
By George W
May 4, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
The road from the north (depicted on the map in the pics) is blocked by snow as of May 1st. With the warm temps I suspect that it will melt out soon. The road form the South is of course, open! The rock is super grippy and secure under the arch. We didn't explore beyond the great arch area, but we will be going back!
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Nov 18, 2008
For the sake of not getting lost, here are some better directions:

From Eugene, follow 126 East for roughly 35 minutes. At the Blue River Reservoir sign (past the first two signs you see for the Blue River), take a left onto Forest Route 15. You will pass H.J. Andrew's Experimental Forest on your right. About .3 of a mile past that, Route 15 forks to the right. Follow that, and continue for 8.1 miles to another fork on Route 15. STAY RIGHT AGAIN!! From this fork, Wolf Rock is roughly 1.4 miles up on the left. You can't miss it. Park at one of the two small pullouts on the south side of the road.

The majority of the forest service road is a single lane gravel road, but it is good shape.
By burlap submariner
Sep 11, 2009
Anybody have a topo/descriptions for the free variant to babra/dur?????
By StrongArm
From: Bend, Oregon
Feb 14, 2010
Barad-Dur: I completed this route on September 25, 2003. Barad-Dur is the best hard adventure route I've done in Oregon. I under-estimated the length of the route after the described pitches, it keeps going to the summit and the walk off is not easy. It didn't help that we climbed it on a hot, muggy day and ran out of water. We linked the first 2 pitches. The route's 2 crux pitches (4th and 5th) are very well protected and go at short, bouldery 10+ and 11- respectively. Every other pitch is pretty dirty and/or mossy, what I call "Oregon style", and a little spicy for the grade with a few 1/4 inch bolts. Great climb, no other people anywhere, easy access and camping along the FS road at the base. Take a single set of gear to #3 Camalot, no RPs or super small wires are necessary.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Feb 19, 2011
I got off route on Barad-Dur and both hand holds blew at the same time (I was conservatively 20ft above my last "pro").

In other words, typical Oregon climbing.

Pack a pair of balls and be prepared to shave after the route. It'll grow hair in new places!
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Feb 19, 2011
BTW if anyone has a topo for Big Bad Wolf, please let me know!!!
By Climber.H
From: Oregon
Mar 13, 2015
Heading up there soon, any current info about the condition of the place or stuff we all should know?
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 13, 2015
Should be mostly dry. The upper routes can get seepy, but the Arch ones should stay fairly dry, especially with this winter we've had. I don't Wolf ever got snow to really stick this winter.
By Alex Alaniz
Jul 21, 2015
Hello. I'm looking for some beta on a route called Morgul Vale on Wolf Rock.

Does anyone have a topo that they'd be willing to share?
What is the runout situation? Any trad gear necessary?

Thanks for your help!
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jul 21, 2015
I added a couple topo's by Tyler Adams, including one of Morgal Vale. Its a bit hard to follow if you don't know the area, but look for the well bolted slab start to it left of Barard Dur (5.3 grade).
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Aug 14, 2015
Wolf Rock will be open unless there is fire in the direct area.
By Adam Snyder
Apr 14, 2016
Has anyone been to Wolf yet this year? Wondering if the falcons are active near Barad Dur.

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