Largest monolith in Oregon home to some decent basalt sport as well as trad climbs. This is where the infamous Barad-Dur (III 5.9 A2 or 5.11A) Is, as well as possibly the only grade V in Oregon "Pooh Corner - V 5.9 A3"
An amazing route, and certainly one of the best and longest trad climbs in Oregon. Worthy of a visit from anyone up to the challenge, Barad Dur is inarguably one of the classiest of our Northwestern adventure climbs. Over the course of eight pitches of mostly excellent rock climbing, a combination of moderate face and crack climbing, plenty of bolts, and a few bold, steep, awesome crux pitches lead you through an audacious series of roofs and up to the top of Wolf Rock. Expect to run it out on e...[more]Browse More Classics in OR
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Havertown, PA Nov 18, 2008
For the sake of not getting lost, here are some better directions:
From Eugene, follow 126 East for roughly 35 minutes. At the Blue River Reservoir sign (past the first two signs you see for the Blue River), take a left onto Forest Route 15. You will pass H.J. Andrew's Experimental Forest on your right. About .3 of a mile past that, Route 15 forks to the right. Follow that, and continue for 8.1 miles to another fork on Route 15. STAY RIGHT AGAIN!! From this fork, Wolf Rock is roughly 1.4 miles up on the left. You can't miss it. Park at one of the two small pullouts on the south side of the road.
The majority of the forest service road is a single lane gravel road, but it is good shape.
Barad-Dur: I completed this route on September 25, 2003. Barad-Dur is the best hard adventure route I've done in Oregon. I under-estimated the length of the route after the described pitches, it keeps going to the summit and the walk off is not easy. It didn't help that we climbed it on a hot, muggy day and ran out of water. We linked the first 2 pitches. The route's 2 crux pitches (4th and 5th) are very well protected and go at short, bouldery 10+ and 11- respectively. Every other pitch is pretty dirty and/or mossy, what I call "Oregon style", and a little spicy for the grade with a few 1/4 inch bolts. Great climb, no other people anywhere, easy access and camping along the FS road at the base. Take a single set of gear to #3 Camalot, no RPs or super small wires are necessary.