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 ADVANCED
Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
Broken Foot T 
Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 
Deceptive T,TR 
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 
Everleigh Club Crack T 
Freaky Face T,TR 
Gargantua T,TR 
Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Wobbly Dihedral 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: First Lead: Rich Bechler and Steve Sangdahl
Page Views: 2,116
Submitted By: EB on Oct 17, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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John Knoernschild starting off the lead on Wobbly ...

Description 

Wobbly dihedral is definantely one of the best 5.9 leads at DLSP. The gear is excellent and the crux is more balance than power. Climb up the clean, arching left facing dihedral 10 fett left of chez's chimney. once you reach the end of the crack you will be at the crux. A couple of exciting moves out and up lead you to easier terrain to the top. The only complaint with this climb is that the dihedral doesn't continue for another 100 feet. Gitt onn itt!


Protection 

everything from # 10 hex to # 3 brass offsets on this climb. Gear starts big and progressively gets smaller as you climb



Photos of Wobbly Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
John K in the thick of it. <br /> <br />photo by Paul Campbell
John K in the thick of it.

photo by Paul Campbell
WobblyDihedral goes up to the left open book in the picture. The chimney to the right is Chez's Chimney.
BETA PHOTO: WobblyDihedral goes up to the left open book in th...
Keith "ned" Guy leading Wobbly Diehedral
Keith "ned" Guy leading Wobbly Diehedral
"Magic Ed" on Wobbly Dihedral after a 20 year hiatus from the Old Sandstone area.
"Magic Ed" on Wobbly Dihedral after a 20 year hiat...
Comments on Wobbly Dihedral Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 22, 2003

first lead : Rich Bechler and Steve S.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 12, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A great first 5.9 lead at Devils Lake. The pro is good and the crux is short.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

What a awesome route. It offers great gear all the way up.

By Tradoholic
Aug 11, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice route. I thought it was a touch easier than 5.9.
A Met #0 Master cam protected the thin seam very well.

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really good crux but the climbing eases significantly after which. I think the grades are pretty spot on at sandstone area.