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WMD's and Tinker Toys S 

WMD's and Tinker Toys 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Steve Montesanto
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,364
Submitted By: Steve Montesanto on Apr 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Description 

Juggy vertical face. Crux is getting past 1st bolt and the short steep section after the ledge midway up. Potentially still a lot of loose rock.

Location 

10 ft right of "let's roll"

Protection 

5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks


Comments on WMD's and Tinker Toys Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nukem
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Apr 21, 2013

i think 5.7 is a little week if the route stays left they way i did, tough sloppy side pull for the grade
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Dec 1, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Weird climbing. OK bolting.
By Chandler Heppe
From: Nevada City, CA
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Really fun pumpy face.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
Jan 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

When I looked down at the foot-long metal rod sticking up off the ledge to the left, I was very careful clipping the next bolt. Will and I were laughing and calling this route "Vlad the Impaler" after that section.

Don't let that stop you from climbing this though! The bolting is safe.

I enjoyed this one. Lots of moves of comparable difficulty but paced with a couple of nice rest spots, and a bit of variety.
By Chasing Choss
From: Granite Bay, California
Mar 29, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Metal "impailing" rod is no longer there.

Curious to see what others think, i hopped on this rig for the first time since around the time it was bolted, as well as tested lets roll to the left both seem to have had some serious breakage. I confidently onsight .11's so its not like i have the best knowledge on this but i felt this has jumped into the .10a range. from right after the 4th? bolt (after the big ledge) there is a comparable move or two from that bolt on to the "unknown .10c down on the scale wall (positive holds with little to no feet) I am interested to hear if anyone else who climbs at a similar level would feel the same about this one. Newer leader would probaly feel a spicy on this one. other than that it is still an great climbing that gets the blood flowing for the tougher stuff to the right.

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