Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Confederate Cracks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adhesive Love S 
Balrog S 
Chinese Soul Food S 
Classique T 
Deft Jam T 
Devil's Candy S 
Door Prize S 
Entwash T 
Fat Bastard S 
Gilgamek Vagina T 
Gimp and Wheezer S 
Hackberry Crack T 
Knob Creek S 
Seamstress, The S 
Solid S 
Stove Top S 
T-Slab S 
Treebeard T 
Up your Buttress T 
WMA Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

WMA Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,108
Submitted By: Arnold Braker on Jul 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: WMA

Description 

Climb a wide crack (#4) to gain a small Large. Then head up the Indian Creek style splitter for about 30 feet.

Location 

Look for the obvious thin hands splitter going up the middle of wall. Just up the hill and left of the slackline.

Protection 

Up to a #4 but you'll probably want several red camalots.


Comments on WMA Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Prewitt
May 20, 2008

One of the classic trad lines in the canyon. Quite striking when you first come up the trail. Gotta love a crux at the end.
By Big Ears
Sep 26, 2011

I place 2 #3s, a # 1 and #.75 cam. Really run out, but if you are comfy on hands its way more fun to run it out. It climbs so well, its easy to neglect placing gear. Great route.
By Spenser Bolte
Dec 24, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Save a #1 and a .75 for up top. The .75 protects the crux just before the anchors, so make sure you have it.
By Alfonso
Nov 10, 2014

ok...im a classic hands width crack climber...i struggle on anything wide, or offwidth. So for me, the crux came about 15-20' up, where i had my elbows deep in the crack. Also...I used both a #5 as my first piece down low, below the obvious small shelf...and I used a #6 at the top of my crux 20' up. This crack widens down low and 1/3 of the way up. Can take big gear. Half way up, the perfect crack starts and nearly goes all the way up. Nonetheless, still onsighted route. I used 7 pieces (Gear Beta SPOLIER ALERT)...in order...#5, #2 (not great), #6, #3, #1, #1, #.75...to bolted anchors. I didnt think there was an upper crux...but I have skinny hands that slot perfectly.