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Elevation: 1,945 ft
GPS: 44.04935, -71.37787
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 261,845 total · 2,510/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Aug 24, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

The Central Kancamagus Area is the largest geographical White Mountains region created here, which makes sense with much of the climbing traditionally thought of as relatively back country. It runs from Table Mtn. and Bartlett-Haystack around Bear Notch Rd in the east, through the beautiful Sawyer Pond basin north of the Kanc. then west past The Captain to include Bondcliff in the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

In reality some are barely back country with BH, Table, Mount Huntington and the NE crags of Greens approachable in an hour or less of hiking, which just gets you warmed up. The rest of Greens (1-1.5+ hrs) depending on crag and the Owls cliffs 1.5+ take a bit more work. The Captain (2-3 hrs) and Bondcliff (9+miles) retain the outback feel.

Each of the areas has its individual flavor, but share in that they are all granite. Greens and Owls around Sawyer Pond are probably the most "civilized", with mostly bolted anchors and relatively well cleaned routes of all types. The Captain, with its beautiful steep slabs, has traditionally been developed as a ground up area. Bondcliff is more of a semi alpine area of questionable rock and little to no fixed gear, offering adventure and open views. It has been climbed all over, but purposely left by those who know it mostly unrecorded to retain the wilderness character.

Getting There Suggest change

Access to the Central Kanc crags is from all points of the compass, sometimes changing with the season, so see the individual areas for detailed approach descriptions.

Owls Cliff, Bartlett Haystack and Table Mountain are approached from Bear Notch Rd, which connects the Kancamagus Hwy to the town of Bartlett. Be aware that the middle of BNR is seasonally closed, sometimes late into the spring.

Greens and The Captain are best approached from the north off Rt 302 via Sawyer River Rd (seasonal closures). If the river is low and you have a bike, it is probably faster to get to the Meadows Slabs of Greens directly off the Kanc.

Bondcliff has a 9+ mile approach (one of the more backwoods cliffs of The Whites!) and can be reached via the western end of the Kanc or Zealand Rd to the north.

Forest road closure status; (not always accurate)

WM: Kancamagus (Central) area original map from visitnh.gov/information/abo…

169 Total Climbs

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Location: WM: Kancamagus (Central) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Kancamagus (Central)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
The RGC (Roger Gagne Classic)
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
The Jolly Green Giant
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 40
Stewart's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 44
The Beanstalk Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Puttin' In Time
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Yeti Beats
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 20
Steady Yeti
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 5
Jet Set
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 18
Greenpeace
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
White Owl
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
The Alaskan Slab
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Trusting the Rubber
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Bigfoot was Here
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Crack of the Future
Trad
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
357 aka Angel (free version)
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The RGC (Roger Gagne Classic) Owl's Cliff > Left Cliff > RGC - Open Spaces Area
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
The Jolly Green Giant Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stewart's Crack Greens Cliff > Main Wall
 40
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Beanstalk Crack Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags
 44
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Puttin' In Time Captain
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Yeti Beats Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Steady Yeti Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags
 20
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Jet Set Greens Cliff > Main Wall
 5
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Greenpeace Greens Cliff > Main Wall
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
White Owl Owl's Cliff > Left Cliff > White Owl Face & Laug…
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
The Alaskan Slab Owl's Cliff > Left Cliff > Alaskan Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Trusting the Rubber Greens Cliff > Main Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bigfoot was Here Greens Cliff > Northeastern Crags
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Crack of the Future Owl's Cliff > Left Cliff > White Owl Face & Laug…
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
357 aka Angel (free version) Greens Cliff > Western Wing & Alcove
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad 2 pitches
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