Mountain Project: Climbing Estes Park Valley

North of the prominent central buttress on the lower great face lies a severely overhanging alcove and an array of tall, beautiful slabs. This area has been recently developed into a fresh single pitch sport and trad climbing destination in the Estes Park Valley. The Wizard's Gate lies at above 10,000 feet and thus can feel very alpine at times (aka bring an extra layer and prepare for heavy breathing). The slabs remain in the shade until late afternoon and the alcove never sees sun, making it a perfect summer area. Dubbed 'The Wizard's Gate' for good reason, one should expect to find some truly magical climbing here along with exceptional views and brilliant summer conditions.

Getting There

Across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulder fields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress and continue around to the north side.

Once you hike the trail correctly you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. 45 minutes at a normal pace.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wizard's Gate:

Crystal Staircase 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Merlin's Magic Corner 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Dark Horse 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet

G3 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet

Wizard's Path 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Riding with the Ravens 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet

The Guillotine 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Take Me to Your Leader 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet

The Gatekeeper 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Book of Spells 5.12a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Afterlife 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet

Magic Dagger 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Cloak and Dagger 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Magic Carpet Ride 5.13d Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Black Magic 5.14a Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Comments on Wizard's Gate

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 13, 2012

By gatch
From: denver, co
6 hours ago
CONDITION REPORT

Anyone know the conditions up there right now? Lingering snowpack, etc, etc.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 23, 2009

Truly magic up here.. Big thanks to Dr. Bob, Ben 'B-Real' Randolph, Phat Kat and Ron Lenz, Al and Peg Czecholinski and Kurt 'Hard Rock' Krueger. We have all had a ball running laps on these brilliant routes- hope you do to!

You can expect a number of additions within the next few weeks, but in the mean time there is plenty to sink your teeth into. Enjoy!

By Theo Colameco
From: Boulder,Co.
Aug 24, 2009

Thanks for posting the new routes!! My partner Bill and I saw y'all heading up there last Thursday after we did the Kor Route on the LGF!! Now we can crag the crags!!

By Kelly Cordes
Aug 27, 2009

What an awesome crag -- many thanks to Jonathan and his crew for putting up some terrific routes here (and thanks for the tour!). Though currently not a ton of routes at this particular spot, it's possibly the best single-pitch crag (i.e. not including Lumpy, the Park, etc) around Estes, IMO. Really cool rock and great climbing, in a truly gorgeous setting. Well worth the visit, and hopefully more routes will go in -- seems there's plenty of potential for more.

By Hard Rock
From: Missoula, MT
Sep 8, 2009

Jon-

Can I go by "Hard Rock" rather than Diet Coke. That's the pen name I used when I did some writing in the '80s.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Sep 10, 2009

You got it, Hard Rock!!

By Jim Redo
Sep 27, 2009

Just a note. Dogs are not allowed up there. Found out the hard way. Drove all the way up there and didn't realize this crag is in RMNP.

By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 27, 2009

The Crags are actually in Roosevelt National Forest, but when you access them from the Twin Sisters trail you have to cross National Park land. If you approach from the Baldpate Inn, across Rt. 7 from Lily Lake, you stay on National Forest land the entire day. The Wizard's Gate, being on the southern end of the Crags, is probably most efficiently approached from the Twin Sisters trail but it's not that much faster than the Baldpate approach. I suspect the route and bolt counts would be much lower if they had to drill by hand.

By acouncell
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 3, 2010

We had a great time climbing up there today...psyched on the route/rock quality. Very well done with bolts/pro always where you want it. Thank you Seigrists, Benny, all you guys...you've inspired me to climb in the Crags. Can't wait to get back up there!

By Bronson
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 11, 2010

Is there a map or the routes? Planning to go up Friday morning if anyone wants to join. Thanks, B

By Joe Collins
Jul 13, 2012

What is the Baldpate Inn approach beta? Thanks.

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Wizard's Gate

Description

Getting There

The Classics