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 ADVANCED
Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball S 
Crack T 
Driven Like the Snow T 
Magic Wand S 
Right Arete T 
Ruff T,TR 
Snow Crash S 
Two in the Bush T,TR 
Uncertain Fates T 
Wave Yer Wand T 
Way of the Wizard S 
Wide Jadodat T 
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 

Wizard Shuffle 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: gecko
Page Views: 398
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The climb, the rope at the bottom is in the starte...
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Description 

This is another line just to the left of Way of the Wizard by about 30 feet. Start near a brief, finger crack to a ledge. Go up a left-facing dihedral of sorts on interesting scoops to gain a crack system. Note, there is a substantial flake on the left about 30 feet up which sounds solid but appears to be resting on a small base. Gain the ridge line and shuffle to the right to the anchors for Way of the Wizard. Beware, there is a down-pointing, triangular block below the ridgeline traverse whose stability may be questionable. Rap.

While it is possible that this is the same route as Way of the Lizard, it seems unlikely that this line could be mistaken for 5.7. My best guess is that Way of the Lizard may be between Wizard Shuffle and Two in the Bush.


Location 

This lies about 30 feet left of Way of the Wizard.


Protection 

To #3 Camalot. A 60m rope is nice.



Comments on Wizard Shuffle Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

The big flake mentioned in the description is still there. It is easy to avoid touching it while climbing the route.