Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball 
Crack 
Driven Like the Snow 
Magic Wand 
Right Arete 
Ruff 
Snow Crash 
Two in the Bush 
Uncertain Fates 
Wave Yer Wand 
Way of the Wizard 
Wide Jadodat 
Wizard Shuffle 

Wizard Shuffle 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: gecko
Page Views: 384
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 4, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: The climb, the rope at the bottom is in the starte...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is another line just to the left of Way of the Wizard by about 30 feet. Start near a brief, finger crack to a ledge. Go up a left-facing dihedral of sorts on interesting scoops to gain a crack system. Note, there is a substantial flake on the left about 30 feet up which sounds solid but appears to be resting on a small base. Gain the ridge line and shuffle to the right to the anchors for Way of the Wizard. Beware, there is a down-pointing, triangular block below the ridgeline traverse whose stability may be questionable. Rap.

While it is possible that this is the same route as Way of the Lizard, it seems unlikely that this line could be mistaken for 5.7. My best guess is that Way of the Lizard may be between Wizard Shuffle and Two in the Bush.


Location 

This lies about 30 feet left of Way of the Wizard.


Protection 

To #3 Camalot. A 60m rope is nice.



Comments on Wizard Shuffle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13

The big flake mentioned in the description is still there. It is easy to avoid touching it while climbing the route.