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Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball 
Driven Like the Snow 
Magic Wand 
Right Arete 
Snow Crash 
Two in the Bush 
Uncertain Fates 
Wave Yer Wand 
Way of the Wizard 
Wide Jadodat 
Wizard Shuffle 

Wizard Shuffle 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: gecko
Page Views: 384
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 4, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: The climb, the rope at the bottom is in the starte...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


This is another line just to the left of Way of the Wizard by about 30 feet. Start near a brief, finger crack to a ledge. Go up a left-facing dihedral of sorts on interesting scoops to gain a crack system. Note, there is a substantial flake on the left about 30 feet up which sounds solid but appears to be resting on a small base. Gain the ridge line and shuffle to the right to the anchors for Way of the Wizard. Beware, there is a down-pointing, triangular block below the ridgeline traverse whose stability may be questionable. Rap.

While it is possible that this is the same route as Way of the Lizard, it seems unlikely that this line could be mistaken for 5.7. My best guess is that Way of the Lizard may be between Wizard Shuffle and Two in the Bush.


This lies about 30 feet left of Way of the Wizard.


To #3 Camalot. A 60m rope is nice.

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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13

The big flake mentioned in the description is still there. It is easy to avoid touching it while climbing the route.