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Wizard Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball S 
Crack T 
Driven Like the Snow T 
Magic Wand S 
Right Arete T 
Ruff T,TR 
Snow Crash S 
Two in the Bush T,TR 
Uncertain Fates T 
Wave Yer Wand T 
Way of the Wizard S 
Wide Jadodat T 
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 

Wizard Rock  

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Location: 39.9991, -105.4111 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,643
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Oct 4, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are sho...

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Wizard Rock is located high on the south side of the canyon, just east of Avalon. A fine destination for the Boulder Canyon climber who has done everything.


A. Wide Jadodat, 4, 1p, 45', gear.
B. Uncertain Fates, 8 R, 75', 1p, gear to 2".
C. Christal Ball, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Crack, 7, 1p, 80', 1p, gear to 3.5".
E. Magic Wand, 8, 1p, 80', bolts.
F. Wave Yer Wand, 6, 1p, 80', gear.
G1.Ruff, 9 R, 1p, 90', gear or TR.
G2.Snow Crash, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Driven Like the Snow, 7, 1p, 95', gear.
I. Right Arete, 7+, 1p, 130', gear.
J. Wizard Shuffle, 5 PG-13, 1p, 95', gear or TR.
K. Two in the Bush, 9 R, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
L. Way of the Wizard, 8, 1p, 70', bolts.

Others (relative locations uncertain):

Way of the Lizard, 7

Getting There 

Approach from the east end of the big ledge atop the Third Tier of Avalon or from the top of Solaris. To descend, lower from ring anchors or walk off to the north and west.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Wizard Rock
Mark climbing above the first good piece of pro.

Driven Like the Snow 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Boulder Canyon : Wizard Rock
The route is distinguished by the fingercracks about 2/3 of the way up, just right of the arete of Snow Crash. These are the crux is tackled directly, but it is also just as easy to move right and fight with a small bush for the 5.6 moves just there. The Title of the route comes from A Sisters Of Mercy tune of the same title:"Like a voice in the wind blows little crystals downLike brittle things will break before they turnLike lipstick on my cigarette and the ice get harder overheadLike think it...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Wizard Rock Add Comment
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By Richard Rossiter
Oct 6, 2003
Way of the Wizard 9 *FA: R. Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001.This route leads to the top of Wizard Rock. Begin at the far right side of the crag, uphill and around to the right. Stem straight up a tricky dihedral, gain the main slab, and continue to the top. 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 85 feet.

This should actually be listed as a new route and it is one of the best on the crag so far.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2003
Wizard Rock is a secluded spot with four moderate (8 to 10b) bolted routes. Most of the routes face west and get morning shade, making Wizard Rock a good hot-weather destination. All the sport routes can be done with a 50m rope and a set of quickdraws.

The easiest approach is from Avalon. Cross the creek by the Avalon tyrolean traverse, go up the talus field, and head up and right to the Wall of the Dead. Go around this to the right and up to the summit tier of Avalon. Traverse left under Avalon's summit tier heading downstream. Pass a short wall with several cracks (Wall of the Goddess) and continue into the woods on a trail right next to the rock. Break into a clearing, cross a gully, and you arrive at Wizard Rock.

The first route you see starts just past a fallen log and goes up a clean, blocky arete above a tree stump (Snow Crash, 10b). The second route starts twenty feet left of Snow Crash and goes up a blunt buttress (Magic Wand, 8). The third route starts twenty feet left of Magic Wand, on a narrow buttress with three blocky overhangs (Christal Ball, 9).

The fourth route is up the gully to the right of Snow Crash, and starts at a short steep corner with a black streak, just right of another tree stump (Way of the Wizard, 9).

Wizard Rock is a good place for new leaders to tackle some harder lines, since the four sport routes are well bolted.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2007
Richard Rossiter has done two additional routes on Wizard Rock: Right Arete and Way of the Lizard. It would be great to incorporate these routes into the Wizard Rock area description. See boulderclimbs.com/wizard.html.

From the route descriptions, it seems to me that Right Arete and Walk the Older Roads are very similar, as are Way of the Lizard and Two in the Bush.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 5, 2007
FWIW, Way of the Lizard is described as starting up something steep and then goes onto a slab. Two in the Bush, as Allen did it, went up a steep bit (~10') and then followed a crack system.
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