Way of the Wizard 9 *FA: R. Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001.This route leads to the top of Wizard Rock. Begin at the far right side of the crag, uphill and around to the right. Stem straight up a tricky dihedral, gain the main slab, and continue to the top. 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 85 feet.
This should actually be listed as a new route and it is one of the best on the crag so far.
Wizard Rock is a secluded spot with four moderate (8 to 10b) bolted routes. Most of the routes face west and get morning shade, making Wizard Rock a good hot-weather destination. All the sport routes can be done with a 50m rope and a set of quickdraws.
The easiest approach is from Avalon. Cross the creek by the Avalon tyrolean traverse, go up the talus field, and head up and right to the Wall of the Dead. Go around this to the right and up to the summit tier of Avalon. Traverse left under Avalon's summit tier heading downstream. Pass a short wall with several cracks (Wall of the Goddess) and continue into the woods on a trail right next to the rock. Break into a clearing, cross a gully, and you arrive at Wizard Rock.
The first route you see starts just past a fallen log and goes up a clean, blocky arete above a tree stump (Snow Crash, 10b). The second route starts twenty feet left of Snow Crash and goes up a blunt buttress (Magic Wand, 8). The third route starts twenty feet left of Magic Wand, on a narrow buttress with three blocky overhangs (Christal Ball, 9).
The fourth route is up the gully to the right of Snow Crash, and starts at a short steep corner with a black streak, just right of another tree stump (Way of the Wizard, 9).
Wizard Rock is a good place for new leaders to tackle some harder lines, since the four sport routes are well bolted.
Richard Rossiter has done two additional routes on Wizard Rock: Right Arete and Way of the Lizard. It would be great to incorporate these routes into the Wizard Rock area description. See www.boulderclimbs.com/wizard.html.
From the route descriptions, it seems to me that Right Arete and Walk the Older Roads are very similar, as are Way of the Lizard and Two in the Bush.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 5, 2007
FWIW, Way of the Lizard is described as starting up something steep and then goes onto a slab. Two in the Bush, as Allen did it, went up a steep bit (~10') and then followed a crack system.