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Wittich Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 6/27/31, Hans Wittich, Walter Becker, Rudolph Widener
Season: whenever
Page Views: 3,752
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Aug 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Paul Horton starting up the Wittich.


The Wittich Crack is a very fun one pitch shot leading from the start of the OS up to the Cat Walk. This obvious break in the wall above the Upper Saddle starts about 20 feet south of the Belly Roll, about where parties climbing the OS would rope up and start belaying. The double cracks of the Wittich quickly merge into a large chimney and crack system, with a few bulges and a large roof at the top. The rock is excellent and the climbing enjoyable, with the crux being the big roof at the top.


See the description section. This route is likely as prone to icing and being wet as is the OS.


There are numerous fixed pins along the way, but parties would probably want a small rack including a few stoppers and cams. The pins are 'modern', not placed by Hans, and the number would indicate this route was once climbed fairly regularly.

Photos of Wittich Crack Slideshow Add Photo
The Wittich seen from the lowest point of the Uppe...
The Wittich seen from the lowest point of the Uppe...

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By Joseph Karpel
From: Boulder
Jan 27, 2011

This is a great alternative for those who dont want to take the belly roll if there is congestion near the summit.
By matt matera
Aug 20, 2014

This can be done in one pitch. The crux is protected by a piton and their are about 5 pitons on the pitch.
By matt matera
Aug 20, 2014

Exit left under the roof.
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