|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Charlie Fowler, Sue Wint, April 1991|
|Submitted By:||Stacy Bender on Apr 2, 2001|
|Comments on Without A Net||Add Comment|
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By Frank Stock
May 1, 2002
If you like the first pitch of Jah Man, or think Epinephrine in Red Rocks is a great climb, then this is the one for you. The belay at the top of pitch one is one of the coolest belays ever.
Yah, it doesn't protect really well (or really at all except belays), but that's part of the experience. The pins indicated in both the Burns and Bjornstad guides do not exist.
The climbing is straight forward-after the first 20 feet you pretty much should have the movement figured out. The summit is a pretty nice place too.
The next party to climb this could do the world a favor and bring a knife and 50 feet of webbing. The rap slings are pretty much a nest of incomprehensible crap-we brought a 20 foot cordelette to contribute, but it wouldn't have been enough to make it right. There are two new quick links up there (thanks for the locking biners whoever left em) and the rap pitons are fine, but they sit about 8 feet back from the edge. The slings/rope/cord combo to make the edge could be improved with a knife and new stuff.
It's pretty obvious when you get there, but Bjornstad's book identifies the rap route incorrectly (its one seam to climbers right but the only possible rap when you summit). One double rope rap with 60 meter ropes will get you to the ground.
A cool side note: You can clearly see the chimney from a 757 at 33000 feet on the flight from Denver to Vegas. Now that's a chimney.
By earl mcalister
Apr 5, 2014
|There are none of the fixed anchors that are mentioned in Cameron Burn's book. We did the route as 1 200 foot long pitch. Beware of the giant flake in the upper part of the climb. Chimneying against it would be a bad idea, especially if you pitch it out and your belayer is in the chimney with you. Rap anchors are on the route Merry Maker (~100 feet right of Without a Net) and are beefed up bolts and chains with ASCA stamps. Thanks for the new anchors.|