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Varnished Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Circle of Benevolence T 
Crank Queenie T 
Disco Sucks T 
Double Crux T 
East Meets West T 
Mosaic T 
Presence of Grace T 
With Malice and Forethought T 

With Malice and Forethought 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Scott Stuemke & Dick Armstrong, 1977
Page Views: 627
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Russ Walling on "With Malice and Forethought&...


With Malice and Forethought is located on the north side of the Varnished Wall, about 40' to the left of Crank Queenie. Climb up a crack, clip the bolt, and then pull through the roof to the right and easier ground. Although awkward, it is possible and recommended to back up the 1/4" bolt with a nut or TCU.

Anchor: slung horn(s).

Descent: rap off slung horns with one quicklink.


A few nuts, 1 bolt (3/8")

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By M.Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2003

Note that the 1/4" rusty death bolt has been replaced as of 1/2003.
By Brian Reynolds
May 19, 2003

I enjoyed this route. Definitely not a bomb in my opinion. It has an interesting range of moves in a nice location. Plus it's on one of the few north faces in Indian Cove, which is really nice on hot days in May!!! Didn't seem too hard for a 5.7, though. In fact, I found it significantly easier than both the 5.6 I climbed in Steve Canyon the day before (Deflowered), and the 5.7 I climbed the next day on Feudal Wall (Crown Jewel's 2nd pitch).

The rappel anchor is not confidence-inspiring.
By UpRope
Nov 30, 2010

I thought the move around the corner was relatively easy but awkward and required a little thought. Without the bolt that move would require even more contemplation. Worth doing.
By Russ Walling
Oct 26, 2012

Pretty good route and you are probably here/there anyway. Take a few small nuts to protect the start and maybe a bit in the big left facing corner by the bolt. Moving to the right is easier closer to the bolt. If you go up the arch too far before moving right, it is a bit harder. Use the slung block anchor for Disco Sucks to rap or lower.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Nov 11, 2015

personally, i wouldn't call the crux step around move awkward. to me it was more of a thoughtful technical/balance move. the initial crack has nice finger locks. overall this north face rock has a nice quality and cleanness to it. kinda of that grey, white and black hue which i personally really like at jtree. not much gear needed just a few small cams (to bd .5) or nuts. and a couple slings.

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