Witchie  5.10b

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Conley and Pearson, 1975 Submitted By:  Sean Nelb on Aug 23, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Witchie is a seldom-led climb on the east side. It has excellent moves, but contains some bushes and loose rock. However, it is definitely worth doing if you are looking for something a litte less conventional than the more classic lines to the right.

Follow a left-leaning corner to a roof. Climb around the roof and into a finger and hand crack that leads to another corner and an anchor. This pitch has a little vegetation, but is otherwise clean with solid rock. 5.9

Keep following the long corner using mostly stems and finger jams until an anchor is reached in a chimney. This pitch is very sustained 5.10b. Some loose flakes can be found on the upper section, but they can mostly be avoided. 160 ft.

Location 

Start on the far left side of the ledge at the base of Burning Daylight and Belle Fourche.

Protection 

nuts and cams to #2 camalot. Doubles handy, especially in the finger sizes.