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Witches' Tower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
It's My Swamp T 
Nala T 
No Direction Home S 
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 
Pumpkin Eater 
Romancing the Stone T,S 
Scarecrow T 
Teenage Terrorists S 
Tese S 
Tipskin Jihad S 
War is Love S 
Wisk, The 
Witch Hunt 

Witches' Tower Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,750'
Location: 40.0022, -105.395 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,725
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 15, 2004
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Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Eagle Rock remains closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is up to a 140 foot high buttress or rib of rock that connects with Sherwood Forest across the creek from the Riviera & Bihedral about 7 miles upstream from the Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock area. It is initially less than obvious that it is a separate rock unless you are Boulder Canyon cognoscetti or until you peruse R. Rossiter's 1999 Boulder Canyon guidebook. Apparently there have been old routes done or attempted low on its steep W face. Since this original post, there has been some lines with bolts and gear added. Certainly, from a distance, evidence of such lines or attempts is difficult to discern. However, a shallow dihedral on the NW edge draws the eye. The less-steep North face also invites the adventuresome but has more lichen.

Expect some lichen and loose rock if you explore here. There is room for more lines for those willing to explore. Expect some shade.

You can descend off to the East on steep slopes. No anchor currently exists on its top.

Several new routes were added in the fall of 2005.

L->R:

A. It's My Swamp, 8, 3p, 370', gear.
B. Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)), 12-, 1p, bolts & gear.
C. War is Love, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
D. Tipskin Jihad, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Teenage Terrorists, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Romancing the Stone, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
G. Nala, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
H. Tese, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
I. No Direction Home, 11-, 1p, 45' or 95', bolts.
J. Scarecrow, 8+, 1p, 45', gear & bolts.

Getting There 

Go to Boulder. Drive W on CO Hwy 119 (aka Canyon). Drive W about 7 mi upstream past Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock. Park in a nice pullout with some shady trees on the S side of the road below the Bihedral. Walk 150 yards downstream to a tyrolean traverse that starts on a big flat boulder and goes to a big tree on the far side. Cross the tyrolean and head left on a trail heading downstream. After a few minutes you'll reach Witches' Tower near the route Romancing the Stone. Just uphill and right from this is Sherwood Forest.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.3 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Witches' Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Witches' Tower:
Pumpkin Eater   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 20'   
Witch Hunt   V10-11 8A     Boulder, 15'   
Romancing the Stone   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tese   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Nala   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
No Direction Home   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad))   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Witches' Tower

Featured Route For Witches' Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: No Direction Home.  Climb a steep thin crack and a...

No Direction Home 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CO : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower
Start just right of Tese. Climb up fun layback moves to a small roof. Clip a bolt and make a strenuous move up to the next clip. Power up and over the bigger roof to good holds. Power over the roof past six more bolts to a two bolt anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Witches' Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Witches Tower & Sherwood Forest areas.
BETA PHOTO: The Witches Tower & Sherwood Forest areas.
Rock Climbing Photo: Witches Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Witches Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Witches' Tower, Sherwood Forest, and Garden Party ...
BETA PHOTO: Witches' Tower, Sherwood Forest, and Garden Party ...

Comments on Witches' Tower Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Jul 28, 2006
We did a couple of routes here one day after making a fairly comprehensive tour of Sherwood Forest. I thought the two climbs here were better than almost everything at SF. Remarkable that this cliff which is passed on the approach to SF went ignored for so long.
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2008
I agree that this is a good tower, but better than anything at SF? No way! It's a worthy stop, but Sherwood KILLS this place.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2011
Nice summer destination. Stays shady and cool until 1 PM or so.

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