Witches' Tower Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The Witches Tower & Sherwood Forest areas.
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This is up to a 140 foot high buttress or rib of rock that connects with Sherwood Forest across the creek from the Riviera & Bihedral about 7 miles upstream from the Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock area. It is initially less than obvious that it is a separate rock unless you are Boulder Canyon cognoscetti or until you peruse R. Rossiter's 1999 Boulder Canyon guidebook. Apparently there have been old routes done or attempted low on its steep W face. Since this original post, there has been some lines with bolts and gear added. Certainly, from a distance, evidence of such lines or attempts is difficult to discern. However, a shallow dihedral on the NW edge draws the eye. The less-steep North face also invites the adventuresome but has more lichen.
Expect some lichen and loose rock if you explore here. There is room for more lines for those willing to explore. Expect some shade.
You can descend off to the East on steep slopes. No anchor currently exists on its top.
Several new routes were added in the fall of 2005.
A. It's My Swamp
, 8, 3p, 370', gear.
B. Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad))
, 12-, 1p, bolts & gear.
C. War is Love
, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
D. Tipskin Jihad
, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Teenage Terrorists
, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Romancing the Stone
, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
I. No Direction Home
, 11-, 1p, 45' or 95', bolts.
, 8+, 1p, 45', gear & bolts.
Go to Boulder. Drive W on CO Hwy 119 (aka Canyon). Drive W about 7 mi upstream past Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock. Park in a nice pullout with some shady trees on the S side of the road below the Bihedral. Walk 150 yards downstream to a tyrolean traverse that starts on a big flat boulder and goes to a big tree on the far side. Cross the tyrolean and head left on a trail heading downstream. After a few minutes you'll reach Witches' Tower near the route Romancing the Stone. Just uphill and right from this is Sherwood Forest.
Weather station 4.3 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Witches' Tower
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Witches' Tower
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Witches' Tower:
Tese 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Nala 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Witches' Tower
It's My Swamp 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CO
: Boulder Canyon
: Witches' Tower
This route ascends the North face of the lower & upper buttresses or ribs of Witches' Tower & Sherwood Forest with an optional traverse pitch in between them. While currently still scruffy & loose in places, this route could clean up into a nice, low-end moderate. There is room for more trad routes on either buttress. Cross the creek via Tyrolean or wade. Approach along the creek on a decent path. Shortly after the path heads uphill toward the sport climbs on the West face, break off left t...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.
BETA PHOTO: Witches' Tower, Sherwood Forest, and Garden Party ...
By david goldstein
Jul 28, 2006
We did a couple of routes here one day after making a fairly comprehensive tour of Sherwood Forest. I thought the two climbs here were better than almost everything at SF. Remarkable that this cliff which is passed on the approach to SF went ignored for so long.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2008
I agree that this is a good tower, but better than anything at SF? No way! It's a worthy stop, but Sherwood KILLS this place.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2011
Nice summer destination. Stays shady and cool until 1 PM or so.