Witches' Tower Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Witches' Tower, Sherwood Forest, and Garden Party ...
This is up to a 140 foot high buttress or rib of rock that connects with Sherwood Forest across the creek from the Riviera & Bihedral about 7 miles upstream from the Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock area. It is initially less than obvious that it is a separate rock unless you are Boulder Canyon cognoscetti or until you peruse R. Rossiter's 1999 Boulder Canyon guidebook. Apparently there have been old routes done or attempted low on its steep W face. Since this original post, there has been some lines with bolts and gear added. Certainly, from a distance, evidence of such lines or attempts is difficult to discern. However, a shallow dihedral on the NW edge draws the eye. The less-steep North face also invites the adventuresome but has more lichen.
Expect some lichen and loose rock if you explore here. There is room for more lines for those willing to explore. Expect some shade.
You can descend off to the East on steep slopes. No anchor currently exists on its top.
Several new routes were added in the fall of 2005.
A. It's My Swamp
, 8, 3p, 370', gear.
B. Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad))
, 12-, 1p, bolts & gear.
C. War is Love
, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
D. Tipskin Jihad
, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Teenage Terrorists
, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Romancing the Stone
, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
I. No Direction Home
, 11-, 1p, 45' or 95', bolts.
, 8+, 1p, 45', gear & bolts.
Go to Boulder. Drive W on CO Hwy 119 (aka Canyon). Drive W about 7 mi upstream past Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock. Park in a nice pullout with some shady trees on the S side of the road below the Bihedral. Walk 150 yards downstream to a tyrolean traverse that starts on a big flat boulder and goes to a big tree on the far side. Cross the tyrolean and head left on a trail heading downstream. After a few minutes you'll reach Witches' Tower near the route Romancing the Stone. Just uphill and right from this is Sherwood Forest.
Weather station 4.3 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Witches' Tower
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Witches' Tower
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Witches' Tower:
Tese 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Nala 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Witches' Tower
War is Love 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a CO
: Boulder Canyon
: Witches' Tower
Start on a big boulder that leans against the north face of Witches Tower. Make a high first clip and power up laybacks to series of technical face moves (crux). Reach the third bolt and move right to a short left-facing corner. Climb up passing two more bolts to the anchor. You can place a small stopper or Alien before reaching the anchor. Great climb on good rock. This should clean up nicely and in my opinion is one of the best face pitches in the canyon at this grade. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Witches Tower.
Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.
BETA PHOTO: The Witches Tower & Sherwood Forest areas.
By david goldstein
Jul 28, 2006
We did a couple of routes here one day after making a fairly comprehensive tour of Sherwood Forest. I thought the two climbs here were better than almost everything at SF. Remarkable that this cliff which is passed on the approach to SF went ignored for so long.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2008
I agree that this is a good tower, but better than anything at SF? No way! It's a worthy stop, but Sherwood KILLS this place.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2011
Nice summer destination. Stays shady and cool until 1 PM or so.