Just Southwest of Penitente Canyon lies Witches' Canyon, named for a rock outcropping that looks like a giant eye. The cliffs tend to be short, but excellent routes abound. A few routes sit near the mouth of the canyon, but most are located just beyond the end of the road.
Credit to Bob D'Antonio's guide to the San Luis Valley, 1994.
At the Penitente turnoff, zero you odometer and head South on the main road. At 0.6+ miles look for a road heading due West with a sign marked Witches' Canyon. Like the other areas down there...hard to miss now-a-days.
The route furthest right when facing the wall. Start in a small, right-facing corner up to the bulging wall. Do a cool, powerful move off pockets to a jug. Clip, shake, then undercling, crimp, and highstep past one more bolt to a lone lowering hook. It is slightly more difficult than its neighbor "Weave Your Spell" but much more straightforward IMHO. Quality....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
It may have been due to extenuating circumstances but I doubt it; we got spanked over here. It's worth the trip over though just to see it and check out some really serious routes. Be on your game or beware...
I like Witches even if most of the routes are shorter. It is quiet and while there are fewer routes, there are a lot of fun ones in the 5.9-5.10 range. Beware if you see Brian Mullins as the FAer. He seems to have a knack for putting bolts in poor places on good lines. Almost everyone I've climbed with over here agrees. This is too bad since he seems to have gotten on a lot of good lines before Bob D and others who know how to put up a route got here.
Also, there are a number of routes that are not in the guide. These are generally of VERY poor quality or ridiculously easy. Also, don't be surprised to find missing hardware- visually recon the route before climbing.