Witch Wonder  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  Eric Hendrickson, John Pinnette (70s) FFA - Mike Opuda (70s) Submitted By:  steitz on Oct 15, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Witch Wonder from the base. The bloc...

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Description 

An awesome classic two pitch crack climb that you'll want to do over and over.

For the first pitch you can either climb the bolted chunky monkey arête of Highlander (5.7) or slither up the dirty dihedral and slamming through a slot chimney (5.9)

For the second pitch follow the crack up and through a squeeze chimney that's quite a squeeze, on the scale of something like being born. Getting into the chimney's the crux. Then follow the easy crack the rest of the way up to the anchor bolts @ the top. (5.7)

It's a fun climb, with beautiful views. Bring some friends for a party because the belay ledge between the two pitches is huge!

Location 

From the Roofs, walk right around the base of the cliff. The first awesome looking crack you see that has a giant flake chimney near the top of the cliff is Witch Wonder. You can follow the crack all the way down to the base. There's a line of bolts that leads up the blocky arête just left of the crack, that's Highlander. It's super visually striking and hard to miss.

You can abseil down off of Highlander's rap bolts, or do the short easy walk off.

Protection 

Nuts and a few medium to small cams is all you need.

Photos of Witch Wonder Slideshow

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Leading up the second pitch crack. Tight squeeze t...