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Wishbone Suspension 

Wishbone Suspension 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007
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Description 

Fun, varied climbing. The crux is right off the deck via a purple-Camalot sized crack. The climbing never gets too hard as you punch a few moves to a great hand jam and then repeat. When the two cracks get close enough you can stem between the two and employ a variety of jams to ascend this fun double crack system.


Location 

The route is easily identifiable as it looks like a wishbone with twin cracks that meet about halfway up. It's a few hundred feet left of Layaway Plan/Serrator/etc. There is a plaque at the bottom. There is also a new 5.10 just to the left with a plaque at the base. Looks mostly wide, fists to offwidth in a corner, and is called something like "Farkle ..(?)..".


Protection 

A few purple Camalots and one or two of each from green alien to gold Camalot. Many options exist in how you protect this climb.



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By slim
Administrator
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

sucks the .5 camalots off your rack. bring a few of them. other than that, you can protect it with a variety of gear sizes from blue alien to #4 camalot. not really a classic 'creek' route, but definitely a good 'desert' route. good prep for tower pitches.

By David Reinert
May 8, 2013

Not sure on the grade myself. Only lead a few 5.11 cracks. Yeah, many purple camelots. Fun route, fun up high, get the business over with down low.