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The Citadel
Routes Sorted
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Arch Rival T 
Clem's Folly T 
Finger Breakers TR 
Finger Zinger S 
Glad We Came S 
Iron Worker T 
Murray's Crack T 
Nose, The T 
Second Thoughts T 
Stem Cell Research T 
Styx n Stones T 
West Ridge T 
Wish You Were Here T 

Wish You Were Here 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,430
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Mike Edmond in the thin section of the dihedral. T...

Description 

A beautiful dihedral just to the right of Glad We Came. There are a few variations on this climb. All of them start on easy terrain and head straight up into the dihedral. Mid-way through the dihedral is a good stance/ledge. An excellent single pitch climb continues up the dihedral (thin fingers and bomber stemming) to its logical end, and then makes an exposed but well protected traverse to the anchors of Glad We Came.

Another variation climbs to the right from the stance/ledge and then up to a bolt anchor. From here, one can traverse left under the roof to the anchors of Glad We Came or continue up to the summit (I can't find info on the grade).

Location 

Located just to the right of Glad We Came in a prominent dihedral.

Protection 

Standard rack. Thin camming units are useful for the dihedral section above the stance. A #3 Camalot or equivalent readily protects the traverse over to Glad We Came.


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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
May 9, 2006

Dennis Jackson's new guidebook is wrong about the 5.11 face climbing on the second pitch of this route (the summit variation). The 5.11 face climbing he refers to is on a different route called Hercumer Snurd. See Karl Kiser's Comment.
By Eric Gottlieb
From: Las Cruces, NM
Aug 25, 2007

BEWARE OF MASSIVE DEATHBLOCK!!! My friend and I (both new to climbing in the LC area) did this route today and enjoyed 95% of it. I relied on the Beta from this site and may have gotten a little off route. Following the dihedral to the logical end meant (to me) going up until the wall got much steeper and was no longer a diherdral. There was a #4 camalot placement in a pod here and I started traversing left using some very good hidden holds but very lichen covered feet. The climbing seemed too insecure with the feet and I opted for a pendelum over to some face holds below a large block (with a #3 camalot placement). When I got to the block, I placed the cam and tested it, and saw and heard the block move about a half centimeter. This is the same block that is in the photo for this route with the second in the thin section. This DETACHED piece of rock is the size of a dorm refrigerator and is positioned directly over the belayer. When I was trying the traverse higher up, this #3 crack was where I was trying to reach to, and then would place gear in. Granted, from this point, the climbing becomes much more secure, but I felt I should share the knowledge of this deathblock with others who also aspire to do this highly rated route for the first time. I assume from the photo that my traverse route was a bit high for the standard route, or the locals here just run it out for added entertainment.
By Zack Libbin
May 22, 2009

Was very lichen covered when I climbed in early may. The lichen adds to the difficulty in the thin part of the dihedral and especially in the traverse as noted above. The traverse was scary with only lichen feet but can be well protected just before traversing left. Block-o-death was still there perched above the belayer.