Brass Monkey 

FA:  Chris Hirsch New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12c [details] Views: 174 page views Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on May 7, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Brandon nearing the chains on Water Music before h...

Description 

This new route is an extension to the already est. route 'Water Music'. Previously an aid line done by Mike Dahlberg, has now been bolted and freed. Crux is for sure the huge roof pull, with one enormous reach, a toss to the lip, and then some technique to finish the roof pull. The start has some rad moves as well but the rock below the first roof is not the best. Some clips are hard to make. Anchors are right above the monkey face, below a small roof. This is the first route that I have bolted (with the help of Jeff Engel and Mike Dahlberg's aid bolts) and so some of the bolt locations aren't ideal for clipping but fine for now, I still intend to fix it up and makes changes. Enjoy!

Location 

Begins on the far right side of the amplitheater next to the forever seeping rock.

Protection 

Bolts. Use lots of very long draws.

Add Photo Photos of Brass Monkey

Brandon grabbing the lip at the crux roof on Brass...