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Willow River State Park
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Rejection and Mercy 

5.13a

   

FA: Paul Bjork - 1998
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13a/b [details]
Views: 372 page views

Submitted By: Colin Erskine on Feb 8, 2006


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Description 

Find a corner with two large blocks at the base. Climb the crack through a 12-foot horizontal roof. At the lip follow bolts up and right to the top.


Protection 

Bolts



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By Chris Hirsch
Aug 19, 2007
rating: 5.13b

This route surprised me, I at first thought it was going to be filthy dirty and not fun to climb. But once cleaned it became amazingly fun to climb and one of the most aesthetic lines on the wall, especially since it's right in the middle of the amphitheatre and the steepest climb here.

Be sure to bring a lot of long draws, because rope drag over two LARGE roofs is a bitch. And the anchors are quite offset making them unequalized, which also twists up your rope pretty bad. Just a heads up.

And props to Paul for doing this route back in '98!

By randy baum
Jun 23, 2008

a second set of anchors were added on friday, june 20. these anchors area about 15 feet lower than the original set. sorry, but i cannot remember the guy's name who put in the new anchors. he said that installing the new anchors drastically reduces the rope drag after the second roof.

By Paul Bjork
Jul 7, 2008

Thanks, Chris, for cleaning it again. As I recall, a good part of the pump on the climb was finishing out the last 15 feet with totally blown arms. This climb was a a great challenge and catharsis for me at this point in my life. I hope that you enjoy it as I did.