Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open; however, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon. Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.
This is the only finished route up river from "Leftovers." The route starts with a crux right off the ground. A couple moves yields more moderate pocket pulling on less than bomber rock (at times in the summer watch for bees) to a higher tiered roof section and finishes on hard moves for clipping the anchors.
Carefully cross upper falls from shady side of river. Stick clip the first bolt.
I find it hard to believe that the route described is anywhere near 5.9. I'm thinking low 12 as well. The moves off the ground are hard enough without thinking about the desperatly blind slapping that occurs when trying to clip the anchor. Also careful on the hike over.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Apr 6, 2008
The route description has been changed by Brandonbus. It should be more accurate now.
john stretch said this route has also been called "splash."
this route stays dry most of the time and is a good choice if you're visiting after a recent storm.
be prepared for the finals holds to be covered in mud.
stick clip helpful for first bolt.
to reach the route, go across to the other side of the river, hike above the falls, the cross back to the base of the route. note: it's easier to cross this upper section if you take your shoes/sandals off and go barefoot.
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