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Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) 

Straight No Chaser 

5.11c

   

FA: first lead rich bechler and steve sangdahl and dale moir 1983
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Views: 1,687 page views

Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 20, 2005


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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The Late Rob Drysdale on lead circa 1989.
Photo: D...



Description 

this great variation to y-crack(aka old and in the way)is a classic lead ,takes good gear and will pump you up.i remember rich got bamboozled into leading this right after he broke his finger in the ditch on zodiac because he thought some rookie was gonna do it before us.great picture to follow.


Protection 

cams and wires



Photos of Straight No Chaser Slideshow Add Photo
MG cleaning gear just below the crux.

MG cleaning gear just below the crux.

Rich Bechler leadin' Straight No Chaser

Rich Bechler leadin' Straight No Chaser

Rich Bechler ,Straight No Chaser.

Rich Bechler ,Straight No Chaser.

The money shot, one of my favorites on one of the best climbs in Wisconsin...or anywhere!

The money shot, one of my favorites on one of the ...

The start of the difficulties.

The start of the difficulties.

Ben I. onsight attempt. May O8

Ben I. onsight attempt. May O8


Comments on Straight No Chaser Add Comment
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By Jeremy Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 16, 2006

Four stars anywhere in the country. Bomber gear at the crux. A rite of passage lead for many a Wisconsin climber. Just lead this recently again. One can pretty much sew the thing up, and you never really have to climb above your gear if you don't want to... Rack from the crotch of the Y: #4 BD stopper, #3 BD Cam, Green WC cam, #8 BD stopper (crux piece), array of wires topping out.

By Eddie Avallone
From: Lewisburg, WV
Oct 27, 2006

If you don't want to mess around with fishing for nuts, the top protects great with a green alien, #3 Camalot and #2 Camalot. That's it. Bomber . Bottom takes .75 and two #1 Camalots. Fantastic lead.

By John Yaworsky
Dec 4, 2006

as the "rookie" that was going to lead it before them I was impressed by the thoughtful notes written to me in chalk when I did it a couple days later. Lesson: never tell anyone what your next project is.

By Leo Hski
Mar 7, 2007

... and I bet the notes scrawled in chalk were simple, declarative statements! The "DLFA Proper Use of English" guide is quite clear on this matter.

By Jeremy Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 4, 2008

Ohh, Ben M... To not give this line four stars in Wisconsin, is to do a disservice to yourself.

By richard bechler
Jan 13, 2009

Jesus John Yaworsky get over it. You should just be lucky you did not show up the day I was discharging the .357 magnum. That would of given you something to really get all caught up in a hissy fit about. I miss the time we spent together at Glencoe. You where a real nice guy to climb with.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 13, 2009

more gear beta (because it's really needed..haha): (from the bottom), .75 BD/black metolius, #3 camalot, #3 camalot, #1 camalot (in upper/smaller pod), #2 camalot (in crack out right) or small nut (if going straight up).

By Jeremy Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 21, 2009

When it really comes down to it, gear beta is only a hint at what you might want...