Straight No Chaser 

Four stars anywhere in the country. Bomber gear at the crux. A rite of passage lead for many a Wisconsin climber. Just lead this recently again. One can pretty much sew the thing up, and you never really have to climb above your gear if you don't want to... Rack from the crotch of the Y: #4 BD stopper, #3 BD Cam, Green WC cam, #8 BD stopper (crux piece), array of wires topping out.

If you don't want to mess around with fishing for nuts, the top protects great with a green alien, #3 Camalot and #2 Camalot. That's it. Bomber . Bottom takes .75 and two #1 Camalots. Fantastic lead.

as the "rookie" that was going to lead it before them I was impressed by the thoughtful notes written to me in chalk when I did it a couple days later. Lesson: never tell anyone what your next project is.

... and I bet the notes scrawled in chalk were simple, declarative statements! The "DLFA Proper Use of English" guide is quite clear on this matter.

Ohh, Ben M... To not give this line four stars in Wisconsin, is to do a disservice to yourself.

Jesus John Yaworsky get over it. You should just be lucky you did not show up the day I was discharging the .357 magnum. That would of given you something to really get all caught up in a hissy fit about. I miss the time we spent together at Glencoe. You where a real nice guy to climb with.

more gear beta (because it's really needed..haha): (from the bottom), .75 BD/black metolius, #3 camalot, #3 camalot, #1 camalot (in upper/smaller pod), #2 camalot (in crack out right) or small nut (if going straight up).

When it really comes down to it, gear beta is only a hint at what you might want...