The Late Rob Drysdale on lead circa 1989. Photo: D...
Description
this great variation to y-crack(aka old and in the way)is a classic lead ,takes good gear and will pump you up.i remember rich got bamboozled into leading this right after he broke his finger in the ditch on zodiac because he thought some rookie was gonna do it before us.great picture to follow.
Four stars anywhere in the country. Bomber gear at the crux. A rite of passage lead for many a Wisconsin climber. Just lead this recently again. One can pretty much sew the thing up, and you never really have to climb above your gear if you don't want to... Rack from the crotch of the Y: #4 BD stopper, #3 BD Cam, Green WC cam, #8 BD stopper (crux piece), array of wires topping out.
If you don't want to mess around with fishing for nuts, the top protects great with a green alien, #3 Camalot and #2 Camalot. That's it. Bomber . Bottom takes .75 and two #1 Camalots. Fantastic lead.
as the "rookie" that was going to lead it before them I was impressed by the thoughtful notes written to me in chalk when I did it a couple days later. Lesson: never tell anyone what your next project is.