Steve,I think on lead, with the pump factor, this route is definately harder than .10c. Maybe on TR, when you don't have to place any pro, the .10c rating is accurate.
Its true, I may be weak, but I know a 5.11 when I see one.
Now, it's important for anyone reading this post to understand that my hardest lead is 5.10b - Watermarks Direct - with a fall, and I've never been to Necedah.
My point is that ratings in WI, no matter where in WI, tend to be stiff. Just plain stiff.
Sometimes 5.8s or 5.9s feel like 11's, depending on the style or moment or attitude. But wouldn't you agree that it is SO SWEET when you go somewhere outside WI - crag or BIG WALL - and get on something that you believe, based on your WI experience, to be at your limit, yet it feels familiar?
That is nice!!
I like the sand-bag-ness of WI because it allows you to go anywhere - and I mean anywhere - and KNOW the level at which you can climb.
That's the beauty of calling a climb like Upper D 5.9(not even +), where I've witnessed "5.10 leaders" hang on gear only 2/3 of the way up.
I STRIVE every day to get better so I can feel cruiser on 5.9 in WI. V3s and V4s rock my world - in WI. In other places, these levels are simple.
Thanks for maintaining this great site - and for letting me rant.
this was first top-roped in the late 70's by either pete cleveland or ralph schimdt...first lead in 1981 by steve s. and rob lemon. this is an awesome route and one of the best in the midwest..period.
Just got on this for the first time last Sunday. WATCH OUT! The hornets are C.R.A.Z.Y. this time of year. They warm themselves on the sunny faces during midday. Anyway; awesome route, and way more over-hanging than I had thought looking up from the ground.
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