Far right side of the wall is a short line. Start up slabby terrain on good edges to the roof. Climb out and left to the anchors. The move to the anchors is height dependent, but still not a big deal.
I thought this was a very fun 5.10 and a good warm up. There was one undercling right after the slab I think, and it is very thin, I was worried it might break.
Fun route but there is some loose rock. I was belaying and my climber stepped on a football size rock up high that let go and exploded in front of me. He may have been a touch off route to the left.
I think this is the right route...anyway Is it just me or is the move up left to the last bolt scary?!? I've been on it three different times and had to bail 3X. I have no problem 'til I get out from under the roof. I traverse right then its left undercling, right pinch. The move itself is not hard, (left side mantle, and the holds are good) but the fall looks nasty! I know I could do this on the ground or on TR, but the fall potential to me looks bad; plus the wind hits me every time just as I get out from under the roof. Any suggestions? I really want to bag this.
NiClips-- yeah it's a heady move. I sat there for a while and looked at it before committing. It's been a couple years since I did that route, but as I recall, you are going for a jug ledge at the top/anchors. I eventually just sacked up and lunged. I will be moving to Madison in a couple weeks and would be happy to meet up with you this summer out at Necedah, esp. if you show me around Gov. Dodge sometime. Chris
Chris, That sounds good. We're actually going to Gov. Dodge for more bouldering next weekend. Drop me a line here sometime. It's always nice to meet up with new people. ~Nic
This routes name is 'Mercy Fuck'. The original anchor was a bit higher and there was one hard move to get to the clipping hold. Long draws on the anchor would allow you to clip from lower and skip the crux so I threw the 5.10 climbers a bone and put in the lower anchors.
Quarry Wall
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