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Air Spire
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Air 
Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) 

Air 

5.6

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 95 feet
Views: 571 page views

Submitted By: Rob Riggleman on Jul 13, 2007


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topping out "air"


Description 

One of the area's classics in my opinion, Air should not be missed. The crux is around the first bolt, and from there to the top you get to enjoy fantastic exposure and massive holds.

Start in the dark dihedral on the southeast corner of the Air Spire with the first bolt about 15 or 20 feet up. Some stemming and jamming gets you past the first two bolts, then it's a low-angle jug haul to the chains, which are about 15 feet below the summit on a large ledge on the southeast corner.

Air is found on the southeast corner of the second main spine. It's labeled in a picture on the main Necedah page of this site. The first bolt kind of blends in to the dark rock, and you might have to look a little higher than you'd expect to see it.


Protection 

5 bolts, two bolt anchor. It'll take gear if you wanted to place it. Might not be a bad idea, 4th bolt was loose last time I was on it. 60m rope will get you to the ground.



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The view at the top of Air. Just amazing...

The view at the top of Air. Just amazing...

Looking down from the top of "Air"<br /><br />photo by John Knoernschild

Looking down from the top of "Air"

photo by John ...



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By Chris Hirsch
Jul 13, 2007

Great route, not too many exposed routes like this in the midwest. However, I remember the rope drag being ridculous. And rappeling down from the anchors would be much wiser than lowering.

By nathankutcher
From: St.Kitts, On
Nov 4, 2007

It was intended that a 5.6 leader would take a couple of pieces of gear, hence the high first bolt. The 4th bolt has been loose since it was placed as the rock is quite soft and the cone just wants to spin in the back of the hole. I never replaced it because the bolt is 6" long and placed at a downward angle so outward pull should never be an issue. It is much the same as a drilled pin. The top anchor was never meant to be lowered off of. It is best to rap off the side, towards the river rather than over the route. You need at least a 60m rope to get to the ground going that way.

By Leo Hermacinski
Dec 11, 2007

Led trad by the ancients in the mid 80s if not before. Known as Chucklehead Crack then.

The face to the right of Air goes at 5.9 or so, again on trad gear.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Hartland, WI
Jul 1, 2008

This was the one of the funnest routes I have been on. Very exposed and great views at the top. My buddy and I made the last 15 feet above the anchors into a second pitch for fun. It was great multi-pitch practice. Don't miss this route if you are in Necedah.