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PWB Arete 

5.9

   

FA: Historic
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Views: 446 page views

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jun 22, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: PWB Arete and its 3 clips. Right now it raps from...


Description 

This route climbs up the well-defined arete on the opposite side of the canyon from Swiss Cheese. If you look closely, you will find the scatched-in initials "PWB" near the first bolt. You will also see a shallow hole from what looks to have been a long-ago aborted bolting attempt.

Anyway, climb up to the first bolt. A .75-1" cam might offer some protection getting to the bolt, but really the climbing isn't that bad. Then climb delicate, slabby, rock past four bolts to the tree. Top out on the ledge and clip the anchors.

PWB offers very cool, thought-provoking climbing up a beautiful feature on perfect rock. If it was longer it would certainly warrant more stars.


Protection 

Four bolts. Optional cam.



Add Photo Photos of PWB Arete
Matt Snider balances his way up PWB Arete.

Matt Snider balances his way up PWB Arete.

John K on PWB arete

John K on PWB arete


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By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Jun 25, 2007
rating: 5.9

Agreed Jay, a true classic, if it was only longer. Solid 5.8 climbing up to a tenuous 5.9 move, that would feel like 5.10 if it wasn't so efficiently bolted.

By Peter Dodge
From: Appleton, WI
Jun 27, 2007

Where exactly is this route?

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Jun 27, 2007
rating: 5.9

Pete,

The bolts went up just last week, so you probably didn't see it the last time you were there (unless it's been since last week), but it's right across the hollow from Swiss Cheese...

By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Jun 29, 2007

This is a sweet route with nice bolt placement. I did my third lead on this and it was awesome. Nice work bolting all the new stuff Jay.

By Erik Olson
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.8+

This is a great route, I climbed it quite a few years ago with dlanglois on top rope (along with another route on that face that was pretty fun and just as dirty at the time). I am excited to give it a go on lead. Have to check it out the weekend after next.

By Erik Olson
Aug 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+

Fun route on lead. Good bolt placement. The route on the right side of this wall we use to call "Barn Yard". The lower sections of Barnyard are climbable on TR, but on the top you would have to climb through the top of the yellow birch that has fallen over.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Jul 10, 2008

Today I added top anchors to this route. It extends the climbing. Rather than reaching for the slings on the tree (slings are now gone) you top out on the ledge and clip the anchors. I also added a bolt at the top of the arete to protect the top-out moves.

Pay attention to the big boulder out right as you top out. I'm not sure if it is loose, but I wouldn't want to find out.

By Peter Dodge
From: Appleton, WI
Jul 11, 2008

Thanks for all the work at the hollow Jay! All the new routes are awesome. As a side note, did you hear about the Vertical Stronghold "reunion" that is going to be held at wheelers the weekend of aug 2,3, and 4 or so?

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Hartland, WI
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.9

Awesome Jay! I can't wait to get on it.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Hartland, WI
Aug 31, 2008
rating: 5.9

Finally got on it. Great climb! Even Angie said "Too bad it doesn't go for another 50ft."