Jay Knower on his new route Generation Gap. Photo...
Description
Generation Gap climbs the blunt arete just left of Swiss Cheese. The route offers a very powerful, bouldery start to progressively easier climbing. Stick clip the first bolt.
Begin "The Gap" by matching the patina edge/feature on the wall above the drop-off. Shorter climbers may have to stack some stones to reach this hold (stacking too many stones might negate the crux, however). Do a pull-up to place a foot on the wall and make powerful moves up to the second bolt. After a couple of pesky hard moves near the third bolt, romp up the less-steep arete to the top. Top out on the ledge and traverse a few feet right to the chains on Swiss Cheese.
Protection
Five bolts. Stick clipping the first bolt is mandatory.
If you stick clip the second bolt on the route you won't get clipped by the roof. Fun route, I just keep seeing people get banged up when they miss the first move.
By waxisgood From: Stevens Point, WI Oct 9, 2007 rating: 5.11c/d
I really like this route but I feel it does not live up to its 5.12 rating when comparing it to pagan rituals and other climbs at the hollow. Once you have a feeling for the first move there are really no struggles.
Just because you figured out the crux move and you are comfortable pulling it, doesn't mean you have to downgrade the climb. That could be said for any climb you figure out. Once you have a feeling for it, there are no struggles.
Hillbilly Hollow
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