BETA PHOTO: The Overhang follows the red line. This is probabl...
Description
About 100 yards east of Calm, The Overhang can be found in a leaf-filled corridor. Start sitting at the bottom of the steepest part of the corridor and climb directly out tiered roofs. The right wall is most definitely off.
The Overhang was attempted for years until a small block was pulled off with hand pressure. The removal of this block created a hold and allowed this problem to go. For a while, the block still sat at the base, and it was possible to put the block back in, thereby making the problem much, much harder. It was sort of like two for the price of one. These days, the block is long gone.
This is a classic problem on good stone with a worthwhile top out. When climbing on this, you almost forget you're at High Cliff.
Today, unfortunately, a key crimp broke off this route. This makes this route much, much harder again. It still seems possible, but will require LOTS of work. Now, you'll have a complete deadpoint to a very precise 2-3 finger pocket. The crimp allowed you to hit this before the pocket. Good luck, and let us know when someone does it again.
When you start in the cove and move up to the big ledge, the next hold used to be a small crimp. From this crimp, you went to the two finger pocket. I'll put a picture up to show you and then I'll delete it later.
Spent Saturday, the 23rd up here working stuff with Pete. It is possible to go to a hold 6" to the right of the right-hand handhold circled in white from the jug. After that a left hand "slap and bump" deposits one's left hand on a crimp 12" up and right from the pocket circled in green. The wetness and my own weakness prevented any further progress, but it seems a path has been found...
Pete - feel free to leave that pic up with the holds circled...
Amazingly, I talked with my friend Mike Taylor yesterday and he said he managed to stick the complete deadpoint from the huge bucket (blue circle in pic) to the pocket (green circle). I have no idea how he did this at all, but it shows that the direct way is still (somehow) possible. He didn't manage to get the entire route, just that one move, so... the "new" first ascent of the direct route is still up for grabs.
I was working this cave yesterday and I was able to complete the route by detouring right to a flake (white circle in picture). It was harder than the original but not by a lot. I was also able to stick the dead point to the pocket a couple times. I believe the crux of the direct route is not going to be the move to the pocket, but the move after. Good Luck!
Pavilion Block Bouldering
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