Walk down the steps to the east of the Redbird Statue and below the main pavilion area. The trail will take you to a huge detached block. Some good bouldering can be found on the downhill side of the block.
A blank roof crosses the right side of the wall. "Calm" climbs up a very overhanging prow that juts out from the right side of the wall, just right of the roof. Heel hooks and slaps lead to easier moves. The climb was topped-out on the first ascent, but this is not necessary as the top is tall, easy, and uninspiring.
"Calm" looks and climbs a lot like "The Buddha" at the Gunks.
By Leveille From: Appleton, WI Dec 10, 2006 rating: V3-4
It was definatly pretty cold yesterday. And I'd have to agree that the right hand side is more V3. Also, did you put up that photo of my bloody hand, or could you shoot me an e-mail with it. It'd be pretty fun to show it to some people at school.
I have been informed that this problem goes easier with a left leg-stuff/calf-hook. I found this problem incredibly desperate, but I did not use the leg stuff. Perhaps the beta on this has "evolved." At any rate, Calm climbs the red line in the photo. To my knowledge, the blue line has not been climbed.
Mike- I'm I'll put the picture up right now. I'll put it up under Harappan Civilization though. Jay- When I do this route I'm to short to be able to use the foot- jam. But, I would agree that with it, it makes it easier. On the other note, the blue line has been done before. Some people who I know have done it (and seen it) are Adam Glass and Mike Taylor. I have just started working this variation and it is much harder then the right.
By Leveille From: Appleton, WI Dec 11, 2006 rating: V3-4
Thx for the picture Pete,
I also agree that the huge foot move is somewhat cheap and makes that part of the route quite a bit easier. I don't know about the blue line but I have no doubt that Adam would have sent that.
Pavilion Block Bouldering
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