A very bouldery route. 5.10 moves to a high first bolt just before a rest. The second bolt is very hard to hang draw on. The meat of the route is a very short very powerful/bouldery 7 move sequence.
Location
This route is in the middle of the cliff face, and ascends the slightly overhanging nose.
Protection
Three bolts, J hook anchors, and a third rusty anchor bolt
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jun 7, 2007
Is this route given PG13 because of the bad bolt, runouts, or what?
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Jun 7, 2007
I gave it a PG because the first bolt is about 18 feet off the deck with a somewhat committing 5.10 move just before the clip. Also I am factoring in landing on glass.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jun 7, 2007
Would a stick clip make the route more safe?
Man, it sounds like there's really a lot of glass.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Jun 8, 2007
Stick would certainly make it more safe, and if you are in good enough shape to be doing .12d then its really not bad. And yes the glass is bad, but its still a worthwhile destination
The first bolt was meant to be stickclipped or bring a pad. I would have put one lower but it would have been next to the crack and it really wasn't necessary. The glass has been cleaned up multiple times but the punks just keep making a mess. I have aways rapped in, hung draws and cleaned glass off the holds before getting on it.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 7, 2008
Jay- this gives you an idea about the glass... Still a decent destination.
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