Obvious crack in the middle of the wall. This route is now bolted, though it has been lead with trad gear. There are ample gear placements,but the quality of rock in the whole area is not solid enough to make any safe, trustworthy trad placement. Thus the bolts.
Location
Large crack between 7 bolts for betty and the stalker.
I was a little skeptical climbing this route with the third bolt being a little bit of a scary reach to clip. It's actually a pretty fun route to lead and has some cool lieback moves on sweet cracks. A little dirty but I guess that's the wall in general.
All so true, the top is a lot of fun, but you could sit in that lower section and clean for hours. Be smart and wear some shades if your belaying otherwise you'll get crap in your eyes.
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