Starts on the far left side of the bluff. Follow first four bolts to some big huecos. The climb is pretty straightforward to here. The next couple of moves between the fourth and fifth bolts are very sequency. Look for a crystal pocket just below the fifth bolt. After clipping the fifth bolt continue along through a cave to the sixth bolt and the anchor. Watch for loose rock.
This route has more history than it should: The local speed climb testpiece, the only Meader Wall route known to see a winter ascent (winter ascents only count if it's below zero degrees F) and the only known naked ascent of the wall.
Speed Record History (set on toprope, start behind the log, finish when the chains are slapped):
Ben Ingman 43 seconds Colin Treiber 40 Travis Melin 38 B. Ingman 36 T. Melin 33 T. Melin 30.1 T. Melin 24.5
---Post route alteration speed records (set on toprope, start on starting holds, slap the chains)---
Travis "the local" Melin 30.5 sec
Car to Car: UN-ESTABLISHED (this is your chance kids!)
Door to Door: S. Dew, T. Melin (2008) TIME?
First Winter Ascent (FWA): George Forge, B. Ingman, T. Melin (2007)
First Naked Ascent (FNA): Greg Parker (2009)
If you break Melin's speed record, or set a car to car time, please post up.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Mar 23, 2009 rating: 5.10d
Thanks for putting this up Corey! Did you have the FA then? This was the first lead for a ton of climbers back in the day...I myself bailed off of it 3 times before I actually got to the chains when I was learning to lead. A three day effort bottom to top. So many fond memories...
That section where the hold broke is now a bit reachy if you're shorter... which I guess could be good if you want your warm-up to include stretching? Still worth doing, but it doesn't flow so nicely anymore.