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The Man In The Black Pajamas 

5.13a

   

FA: FA George Forge the 5th, FL Travis Melin
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
Length: 45 feet
Views: 1,157 page views

Submitted By: TravisMelin on Feb 6, 2006


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Jonathan , RP attempt. Sept 08


Description 

Sustained, long, and progressively more powerful pulls on thin holds quickly lead into a burly undercling, and finally a crux stab at a good pocket. All this made more exciting as the crux throw is made with the bolt below your feet...(dont worry its a good fall:). Rest up in the cave at the top, as there is still a slopey V2 move to get the anchors clipped.


Protection 

6 Bolts


Location 

Between Patent Pending and Brown Reason to Live



Photos of The Man In The Black Pajamas Slideshow Add Photo
Jonathan, sept 08. You can almost see the lactic acid building up.

Jonathan, sept 08. You can almost see the lactic a...

At the crux.

BETA PHOTO: At the crux.

Remo pulling off small crimps. May 2009

Remo pulling off small crimps. May 2009

Hitting the final crimps.

Hitting the final crimps.

much needed rest before the final moves

much needed rest before the final moves

the final crux before the anchor.

the final crux before the anchor.


Comments on The Man In The Black Pajamas Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 12, 2009
By Andrew May
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 29, 2006

I think FA honors go to George Forge III.

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.13a

This route has been cleaned up a lot now, and is actually very straight forward, not much in the way of difficult sequencing. There are good thin sustained crimps the whole way. You need to move fast to have enough power left to do the crux moves at the top.

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Nov 13, 2007
rating: 5.13a

Route leads very well, easy clipping stances. A little run out at the last bolt , but is unavoidable due to the nature of the crux moves.

By Ben Ingman
From: Denver, CO
Aug 25, 2008

First Lead - Travis Melin
(and it's G. Forge the 5th)

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Apr 29, 2009
rating: 5.13a

Last night I witnessed the coveted 4th ascent of this route. A proud effort by Roberto, he took the "big fall" 3 times yesterday, and finally sent right at dusk. He just crushed it!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 29, 2009
rating: 5.13a

Nice work Roberto! This thing is on my list. Next weekend- Yes!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 10, 2009
rating: 5.13a

This is a really fun route! Travis and AJ took time away from their studies to give me support and see me send, thanks guys.

By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.13a

Nice work Remo! Truly one of the top-10 routes in Minnesota/Wisconsin.
The highly anticipated, and noteworthy 5th male ascent?

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.13a

Yes! Remo cruised this thing yesterday. He made it all look so easy. nice work!

By Corey Morris
From: Onalaska, WI
May 11, 2009

Good send man!

By Roberto de la Riva
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.13a

HELL YA REMO!!! NICE