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Grandad's Bluff


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Submitted By: TravisMelin on Jun 22, 2007
Administrator: Jay Knower
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Darin Limvere at the crux of Brown Reason


Description 

Many years ago Grandad's Bluff was known as a somewhat chossy elitist crag, with only a cluster of 5.12-5.13 routes. A lot has changed over the last several years however, and a bunch of new routes have been bolted by the local crew. Today the crag features almost 40 clean sport lines, most of which fall in the 5.9-5.10d range. A large increase in number of climbers both from local universities, and the surrounding area has help solidify and remove most all of the loose or dirty rock.

Many of the early routes were established by D. Groth in the 90's, new routes have been established by several area climbers including A. Stetzer, F. Skemp, S. Tucker, and T. Melin. If one were to look hard enough in the surrounding bluffs you will find that the areas climbing history predates this by quite a while. An unlisted 5.11 route exists on a neighboring bluff that hosts 70's style homemade bolts and hangers. I've always wondered who established this line...

It is important to note that climbing is not really legalized here, but I have never heard of any climber being ticketed. That being said I do know a few people who have received 200$ tickets for hiking past the fence near the overlook point. Bottom line is minimize your time spent in view of the road, don't park at the main overlook, and you should be fine.

Classic Area Challanges:
Meter Wall Slam - redpoint all the Meader Wall routes in a session
The Grand Slam - redpoint all the routes on the bluff in one day
Patent Pending Speed Lap - See route for details
Classic Link-up - Do the meter wall traverse and finish up any route (for the enduro junkies)


Getting There 

Bliss Road has been re-opened. The approach is now a committing 5 minute drive from the east end of Main St in La Crosse.

Due to the heavy rain and poor city planning the normal access road to Grandads bluff (Bliss Road) is closed to cars. This leaves you with two options for access to the climbing. Most choose to drive south on Losey Blvd. and then left (east) on State Road (33). Driving five minutes on State Rd. will take you to the top of a long steep hill. At the top is County Rd. F take a left on this and follow it until you see the Alpine Inn. Witches Cauldron is located at the first small pullout on the left, all other areas are access by parking at the second to last pullout on the left and then using the small climbers trail directly east out of the gravel lot.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grandad's Bluff:
Cockblocker   5.8     Sport   Mushroom Wall
A.D.I.D.A.S.   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Adidas Wall
Randalls One Trick Pony   5.9-     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Adidas Wall
Everything Zen   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Adidas Wall
Seven Bolts for Betty   5.10a     Sport, TR   Mushroom Wall
Freehander   5.10a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Adidas Wall
Let Your Pimpness Shine   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Adidas Wall
Pryopism   5.10b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Donkey Punch Wall
Trophy Husbands   5.10b/c     Sport, 50 feet   Adidas Wall
Ride the Donkey   5.10c/d     Sport, 45 feet   Donkey Punch Wall
Patent Pending   5.10d     Sport   Meader Wall
Strongest Man Alive   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Witches Cauldron
Yeast of Burden   5.11c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Witches Cauldron
Donkey Punch   5.11d     Sport, TR   Donkey Punch Wall
Big Man on Campus   5.12-     Sport, 45 feet   Meader Wall
Nihilist   5.12a/b     Sport, 45 feet   Meader Wall
Hawaiian Bill   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Meader Wall
Pork Tornado   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Meader Wall
Brown Reason to Live   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Meader Wall
The Man In The Black Pajamas   5.13a     Sport, 45 feet   Meader Wall
Browse More Classics in Grandad's Bluff

Featured Route For Grandad's Bluff
Moving towards the rest hold below the crux dyno.

Pork Tornado 5.12b  WI : Grandad's Bluff : Meader Wall
One of the more difficult routes at the Meader wall at Grandads Bluff. Vertical and Overhanging. Very powerful climb. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI


Photos of Grandad's Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Great view you can catch from Grandad's.

Great view you can catch from Grandad's.

1. Park here.

BETA PHOTO: 1. Park here.

2. Walk this way, 100 feet to the telephone pole...

BETA PHOTO: 2. Walk this way, 100 feet to the telephone pole.....

3. Walk down here, to the bottom of the hill....

BETA PHOTO: 3. Walk down here, to the bottom of the hill....

4. Left here to Adidas Wall (~100-150 yards) and Psychobikerbitch Wall, Right to Mushroom Wall, Donkey Punch Wall, and Meader Wall...

BETA PHOTO: 4. Left here to Adidas Wall (~100-150 yards) and P...

5. Straight (or left, in this photo) to go to Overlook, turn right across "Meadow" to the Mushroom Wall, then the Donkey Punch Wall, and lastly the Meader Wall....

BETA PHOTO: 5. Straight (or left, in this photo) to go to Over...

6. The first wall you come to is the Mushroom Wall. Look for the purple spray paint mushroom at the right side of the wall, head height.

BETA PHOTO: 6. The first wall you come to is the Mushroom Wall...


Comments on Grandad's Bluff Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 16, 2009
By josh wabaunsee
Oct 26, 2007

there is much more that grandads bluff has to offer than 5.12 routes... id put the avg grade at 5.10...many thanks to DG, skemp, and randall for putting up routes on walls other than meader...also dont forget to "get your duff up the bluff, and have a brew with a view" at the alpine inn...great apres climb burgers and beer

lacrosse climbing has a long tradition that predates many of the old guys by at least a decade...and should continue as long as climbers care for the area. how many other towns in wisconsin can claim decent climbing with downhill aproaches?

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Nov 16, 2007

New routes are going up almost daily. Other new additions include
Two Girls and a Cup - 5.9
Man in the black pajamas - 5.13a
Big man on campus - 5.12a
(not yet named) -5.10+

With many more in the works. This spring there should be a heap of new routes in the area.

By Bryan Kuhn
From: LaCrosse, WI
Dec 27, 2007

I've learned that a lot of the ratings are approaching meaningless...("how hard is it?" uhhh...5.fun?) the climbable lines are pretty stable, but once in a while something comes off, and the route CAN change a little. there is a sh*tload of halfway decent rock in and around La Crosse, but developing it for climbing is a different challenge entirely. We're worth the trip, I think, for the usual DL or Redwing crowd to get out of their respective environments.

and from a definitively intermediates climber - some of this stuff here is HARD.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 7, 2008

I would like to give a public shout out to all who have made this a great climbing destination, from cleaning, bolting, excavating the base of the climbs, trails, and all the other nameless tasks involved... Every time I go to Grandad's I am grateful to those who have come before me.

By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Sep 11, 2008

I too would like to say that I'm grateful for such an awesome place to climb so close to where I'm located. Thanks to the guys who put it all up!

By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Feb 17, 2009

Bliss Road is back up, so someone might want to change the directions for getting there.

By Jim H
Jun 11, 2009

This is located in La Crosse, WI

By josh wabaunsee
Jun 11, 2009

Not really located in Lacrosse


The truth is it is in the town of shelby.

By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 4, 2009

There is a wall between the Mushroom wall and Meader wall with a single route on it. It's pretty slabby and goes at about 5.8 or 5.9. At the top you can traverse over and put a TR on a route around the corner that has chains but is not bolted. Both are pretty fun and a little dirty. Any idea what these are?

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Aug 4, 2009

the right line was originally bolted by DG and called two girls and a cup (5.9). We always called it 20 minute wank, for unobvious reasons. The left line is unnamed to my knowledge. It has been TR'ed but needs lots of cleaning...

By FrankB
From: Lexington
Sep 14, 2009

pretty neat view of it here:

http://www.bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&FORM=LMLTCP&cp=r92>>>>>

By josh wabaunsee
Sep 14, 2009

did you notice the party at addias?

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Sep 14, 2009

Ha, thats awesome

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 15, 2009

Wow Frank, that is really cool!

By A.J. Christnovich
From: La Crosse, WI
Sep 16, 2009

cool beans frank, cool beans