Many years ago Grandad's Bluff was known as a somewhat chossy elitist crag, with only a cluster of 5.12-5.13 routes. A lot has changed over the last several years however, and a bunch of new routes have been bolted by the local crew. Today the crag features almost 40 clean sport lines, most of which fall in the 5.9-5.10d range. A large increase in number of climbers both from local universities, and the surrounding area has help solidify and remove most all of the loose or dirty rock.
Many of the early routes were established by D. Groth in the 90's, new routes have been established by several area climbers including A. Stetzer, F. Skemp, S. Tucker, and T. Melin. If one were to look hard enough in the surrounding bluffs you will find that the areas climbing history predates this by quite a while. An unlisted 5.11 route exists on a neighboring bluff that hosts 70's style homemade bolts and hangers. I've always wondered who established this line...
It is important to note that climbing is not really legalized here, but I have never heard of any climber being ticketed. That being said I do know a few people who have received 200$ tickets for hiking past the fence near the overlook point. Bottom line is minimize your time spent in view of the road, don't park at the main overlook, and you should be fine.
Classic Area Challanges: Meter Wall Slam - redpoint all the Meader Wall routes in a session The Grand Slam - redpoint all the routes on the bluff in one day Patent Pending Speed Lap - See route for details Classic Link-up - Do the meter wall traverse and finish up any route (for the enduro junkies)
Getting There
Bliss Road has been re-opened. The approach is now a committing 5 minute drive from the east end of Main St in La Crosse.
Due to the heavy rain and poor city planning the normal access road to Grandads bluff (Bliss Road) is closed to cars. This leaves you with two options for access to the climbing. Most choose to drive south on Losey Blvd. and then left (east) on State Road (33). Driving five minutes on State Rd. will take you to the top of a long steep hill. At the top is County Rd. F take a left on this and follow it until you see the Alpine Inn. Witches Cauldron is located at the first small pullout on the left, all other areas are access by parking at the second to last pullout on the left and then using the small climbers trail directly east out of the gravel lot.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grandad's Bluff:
One of the more difficult routes at the Meader wall at Grandads Bluff. Vertical and Overhanging. Very powerful climb. ...[more]Browse More Classics in WI
there is much more that grandads bluff has to offer than 5.12 routes... id put the avg grade at 5.10...many thanks to DG, skemp, and randall for putting up routes on walls other than meader...also dont forget to "get your duff up the bluff, and have a brew with a view" at the alpine inn...great apres climb burgers and beer
lacrosse climbing has a long tradition that predates many of the old guys by at least a decade...and should continue as long as climbers care for the area. how many other towns in wisconsin can claim decent climbing with downhill aproaches?
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Nov 16, 2007
New routes are going up almost daily. Other new additions include Two Girls and a Cup - 5.9 Man in the black pajamas - 5.13a Big man on campus - 5.12a (not yet named) -5.10+
With many more in the works. This spring there should be a heap of new routes in the area.
I've learned that a lot of the ratings are approaching meaningless...("how hard is it?" uhhh...5.fun?) the climbable lines are pretty stable, but once in a while something comes off, and the route CAN change a little. there is a sh*tload of halfway decent rock in and around La Crosse, but developing it for climbing is a different challenge entirely. We're worth the trip, I think, for the usual DL or Redwing crowd to get out of their respective environments.
and from a definitively intermediates climber - some of this stuff here is HARD.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 7, 2008
I would like to give a public shout out to all who have made this a great climbing destination, from cleaning, bolting, excavating the base of the climbs, trails, and all the other nameless tasks involved... Every time I go to Grandad's I am grateful to those who have come before me.
By Garrett Soper From: Duluth, Minnesota Sep 11, 2008
I too would like to say that I'm grateful for such an awesome place to climb so close to where I'm located. Thanks to the guys who put it all up!
By Garrett Soper From: Duluth, Minnesota Feb 17, 2009
Bliss Road is back up, so someone might want to change the directions for getting there.
By Garrett Soper From: Duluth, Minnesota Aug 4, 2009
There is a wall between the Mushroom wall and Meader wall with a single route on it. It's pretty slabby and goes at about 5.8 or 5.9. At the top you can traverse over and put a TR on a route around the corner that has chains but is not bolted. Both are pretty fun and a little dirty. Any idea what these are?
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Aug 4, 2009
the right line was originally bolted by DG and called two girls and a cup (5.9). We always called it 20 minute wank, for unobvious reasons. The left line is unnamed to my knowledge. It has been TR'ed but needs lots of cleaning...
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