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It's Oral Over 

V6-

   

FA: Travis Melin
New Route: Yes
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V6 [details]
Length: 15 feet
Views: 458 page views

Submitted By: TravisMelin on Mar 5, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: The early crux.


Description 

Thin! Stand start and move up a series of small/sharpish pinches. Bump to a good pinch just off the right arete, and move left onto more thin bad holds. Either make a final deadpoint to a minipocket out left, or dyno for the huge jug at the top. Super fun route!


Location 

The right side of the face


Protection 

Pad, definitely a spotter. The tree has a broken limb that will certainly poke you in the back if you fall mid route. This danger is easily prevented with a good spot.



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AJ crankin at dusk

AJ crankin at dusk


Comments on It's Oral Over Add Comment
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By Dobbe
Mar 7, 2009

Nice work Travis. Very good directions.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 26, 2009
rating: V6

I climbed all the moves to the top, but couldn't commit the bump to the finish because of no spotter, and the tree is nobody's friend. A great boulder problem- good work Trav! IMO I would call this a 4 star V6,(tad harder than other V5s in the park) the holds are super small(and sharp) and far apart= perfect!
The face just left of Oral Over looks futuristic, but doable. Who will be the strong one to go and get after it.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 4, 2009
rating: V6

Agree with Remo, scary at the top unless you have a good spotter (thanks Jay). Fun line, nice work Travis, and yes, for once, good directions! This line was very similar in difficulty to Alpine Bouldering Club, so harder than V5?