Schizophrenia climbs the left hand version of the two routes on the first tall golden wall. They share the first 2? bolts if I remember correctly. Crux at about 2/3 height leads to some amazing jugs up high.
Location
First wall you come to when walking up the trail from the horse trail.
Protection
10 or 11 bolts with chain anchors. Bring draws for the top if you plan to lower or TR.
Hey Rhoads, I think you may be working off the "old" topo that I created. I updated it at one point with newer names (and also changed the grade of Fahrenheit 23 from 13a to 12c - perhaps adding to some of the confusion!). This route should have its correct name, Schizophrenia, in the new topo - which I think all your links lead to.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 17, 2009 rating: 5.12a
They share the first 4 bolts, then diverge. Although I probably screwed up the beta and made it harder than it needed to be, I thought it was harder or at least as hard as Unknown 12a/b (the right hand line). Super fun though, if you can get past the first 3 bolts and the choss that that section entails.
Did more break on this thing? I remember doing this after the big hold at the crux bulge broke. Mike showed me a good way of staying right at the bulge which may even be a better sequence than the original. Just meant I had to reach a bit left to clip the crux bolt. But maybe these holds broke too?
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 18, 2009 rating: 5.12a
Yesterday was the first time I was on it. My buddy Jay went out right to that big jug out there to clip the bolt, but then found himself too far right to move up to the jugs up high. He tried a buncha times and never got it that way, and he's taller than me. So I got the same place and stayed left of the bolts using gastons and hard sidepulls to crank to the jugs. Very burly. Perhaps going right of the bolt would have been easier and Jay was missing a hold or something, but after seeing him not send that way, I figured I would try something different. It wasn't obvious that anything had broken off up there but it can be hard to tell. Staying left felt easily 12a, FWIW. I really had fun on this route (and the one to the right).
I have never tried staying left of the bolts, though I imagine that would be hard! Going right I remember a kinda big stand-up move/lunge, going from big hold to big hold. Dunno, maybe those holds are still there or maybe something more broke, not exactly the best rock around, but still fun climbing!
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 18, 2009 rating: 5.12a
Yeah I think the big holds are all still accounted for then. I think Jay just didn't get high enough or lunge far/high enough. And after he didn't get the move, I wanted to flash it so I went left instead. Fortunately it went that way, so I never did go back and try the right-side moves. Next time I'm out there I'll have to try it that way.
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