The administrator climbing Secret Agent Man on a f...
Description
The prominent prow as you walk up to the Qual Wall holds Secret Agent Man, one of Winsonsin's (TM) finest hard lines. Discovered, bolted, and climbed ca. 1996 by Schlick and Dyer, it starts on an easier face up incut holds to a good rest. There are a couple ways to get to the jug and rest, and all seemed about the same in difficulty. After a shake, figure out a bouldery sequence to move onto the face using a combination of the arete and microscopic holds on the face to a series of bigger and bigger moves until you finally clip the chains with forearms screaming.
Over the years some of the holds have changed due to the nature of the sandstone, but doesn't seem to have affected the overall difficulty yet. At least one Madison local has climbed the upper face skipping a couple of the better holds and called it mid-13, so variations exist, but all are hard. Enjoy!
Location
Can't miss it. On the spire in the middle of the Qual Wall.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 25, 2007 rating: 5.13a
FA Jeremy Schlick. After the roof, there is a rest on the right side of the arete. The route then goes on the left side of the arete (crux) using a cool sequence to slap your right hand on the arete.
The variation goes straight up the arete from the rest and seems about the same in difficulty, though quite a bit weirder and off-balance.
Jay, I think the variation Eddie is talking about is a different route. Shares the first 2 bolts with SAM and then climbs the nordwand around the right corner via a different bolt line. I thought this nordwand route was about 11b and surprisingly good, though it needs a second anchor bolt and chains.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 25, 2007 rating: 5.13a
Okay Jason, I see what you and Eddie are saying. My bad. I thought Eddie was talking about your jacked dyno up the arete--which I still don't understand.
FA Jeremy Schlick/Seth Dyer. What a treat it was to find this thing 11 years ago already. Seth and I both did it, though Groth has some honors for pulling the true topout... Always the hardman.
I did this route last Labor Day weekend, very nice climb. I've heard rumors that a hold broke recently (before sept.(before I got on it) and nobody had climbed it since it broke. I was not able to spot where the hold broke off from, but the route still felt like a solid 13a to me. Great arete climb though, not quite as good as 'Whiskey A Go Go', I'm sure many would agree. This route alone made the trip from the Twin Cities worthwhile for me. The bouldering on the other hand is not want-to-sit-in-the-car-for-10-hours good. But should be checked out if your nearby.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Feb 14, 2009 rating: 5.13a
Great route. Thanks JJ. See this thread for info on the broken hold, no big deal. The other thing I guess suitors of this route should be aware of is that several of the jugs in the first half before the rest hold wasp nests- at least in September/October anyway. The climbing is pretty chill in the lower section but beware where you put your fingers or get a nasty surprise. I am not trying to discourage anyone from getting on it: it's pretty easy to avoid the huge jugs in the lower section.
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