By Jay Knower Administrator May 25, 2007 rating: 5.13a
FA Jeremy Schlick. After the roof, there is a rest on the right side of the arete. The route then goes on the left side of the arete (crux) using a cool sequence to slap your right hand on the arete.
The variation goes straight up the arete from the rest and seems about the same in difficulty, though quite a bit weirder and off-balance.
Jay, I think the variation Eddie is talking about is a different route. Shares the first 2 bolts with SAM and then climbs the nordwand around the right corner via a different bolt line. I thought this nordwand route was about 11b and surprisingly good, though it needs a second anchor bolt and chains.
By Jay Knower Administrator May 25, 2007 rating: 5.13a
Okay Jason, I see what you and Eddie are saying. My bad. I thought Eddie was talking about your jacked dyno up the arete--which I still don't understand.
FA Jeremy Schlick/Seth Dyer. What a treat it was to find this thing 11 years ago already. Seth and I both did it, though Groth has some honors for pulling the true topout... Always the hardman.
Is anyone interested in getting on this route this fall now that it seems like it's cooling down some? I don't have a super lot of free time but would be interested in working on this route if anyone else was interested and we could figure out some time to meet up... PM me if interested please.
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