This route starts in the middle of the face and works its way up the left arete. The crux is a right hand throw to the bad arete, after securing a left hand crimp on the arete. Bringing the feet up over the lip of the roof may also be a comittment crux for some.
Location
About 25 feet past nameless arete. A 5 foot tall slab/face capped with a 1.5 foot horizontal roof, which then has a slightly concave/vertical 10 foot face atop it. Also about 5 feet right of a large tree that hugs the cliff.
By Chris treggE From: Madtown, WI May 23, 2008 rating: V5
Nice lines Travis. I looked at both variations of these (this one and Dangle) last summer, but they looked very improbable so I passed on them. Got on them last night finally, a bit humid, alone- no spotter, with skeeters harassing me and rednecks blasting Rush 2112 from the campsite below, so not perfect conditions but I would say they both were more tricky and committing than suggested. Fortunately they are not too tall. They were more tricky than Huston Arete (V5ish) and Split Personality (V5-6ish) for me but hey we're all a bit different and each day is different. Again, nice lines and great additions.
i agree that it was harder than both. I have it at 5+ where the other to i have standard v5. super super quality problem. didnt try dangle yet but it looks as if the crimp the description speaks of is broken.
wow that was a quick response. haha. yeah it looked like it would still go without to much difficulty. wierd rock wedged in the landing zone. looked as if it could be knocked out of there but who knows. Anyways i thought left out was total class. bravo. Also, has anyone gone in the warmer months? are the bugs unbearable, rock ungrabbable, ect?
By Chris treggE From: Madtown, WI Jun 17, 2008 rating: V5
yup, when i was on these problems a few weeks ago, i found no left hand crimp on 'dangle'. ended up matching on the sloper (left hand up there first then right) and then using a small intermediate sidepull edge for the left and moving feet up. i was wondering what the heck that beta was all about, but it makes sense that the problem has changed. but hey whatever works...
i was looking but there's just no holds on the face after the 2 good sidepulls... i mean like blanky mc blank. unless im missing something. did u see something i didnt?
Just to confirm what i already said... There are no holds for about 4 feet and then theres some slopey crap but the other problem is that there arent any feet over the lip to get high and lock those holds off. gave several goes just to check it out. I would love to hear otherwords.
Group Camp B, Plan B Area + Backbone Ridge
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