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Sandstone Violence 

V8

   

FA: Jason Huston
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V8 [details]
Views: 3,554 page views

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Submitted By: Jeremy J Schlick on Oct 27, 2006

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Reaching for the right hand crimp


Description 

In many ways THE line on the backbone. Start out in the middle of the block on a good sidepull. Work straight up past hard holds and an almost ghostlike crimp up high to the horizontal. Go up through a niche at the top. A very tall, proud line. #14 JJ's old topo.


Location 

Backbone


Protection 

-



Photos of Sandstone Violence Slideshow Add Photo
Relativity Block.  Project goes right up the center.

BETA PHOTO: Relativity Block. Project goes right up the cente...

A lousy shot but it gives you the scale of things.

A lousy shot but it gives you the scale of things....

Kelsen squeezing hard.

Kelsen squeezing hard.

Establishing myself on the two pinches.

Establishing myself on the two pinches.

Route by Erosion, beta by Huston, photo by Shantan.  Spring 08.

Route by Erosion, beta by Huston, photo by Shantan...

Ben pulling off the high foot on SV.  Photo by Kelly.  July 08.

Ben pulling off the high foot on SV. Photo by Kel...

He's a little short yet to pull off the first moves to the double pinch but it's never too soon to start trying.  Photo by Kelly.

He's a little short yet to pull off the first move...

Travis on the dual pinches.  Squeeze!!!

Travis on the dual pinches. Squeeze!!!

Travis moving right onto the small crimp and into the crux...

Travis moving right onto the small crimp and into ...

Dobbe in June '08 on SV. It was about 80F and pretty humid; nobody was getting up that face that day...

Dobbe in June '08 on SV. It was about 80F and pret...

The Administrator checking out the moves

The Administrator checking out the moves

Sticking the move to the jug

Sticking the move to the jug

RV almost sticking SV.

RV almost sticking SV.

Dobbe squeezing the pinches.  He came so close to sending.

Dobbe squeezing the pinches. He came so close to ...

Gabe on his first try, looking strong.

Gabe on his first try, looking strong.

Dobbe with some good September temps.

Dobbe with some good September temps.

Dobbe getting ready to move to the right crimp

Dobbe getting ready to move to the right crimp

That crimp moved just a little farther away this spring.  The old one trick pony on SV, April '10.  Photo Travis Melin.

That crimp moved just a little farther away this s...

Stuck.  Photo Travis Melin.  April '10.  Such a good problem.

Stuck. Photo Travis Melin. April '10. Such a go...


Comments on Sandstone Violence Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 4, 2009
By SteveSchultz
Nov 6, 2006

we're guessing it'll go in the v8/9 range

By JasonH
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 19, 2006
rating: V8

A project no more.
"Sandstone Violence" V8 FA: Jason Huston

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Jun 9, 2007

any beta for someone working the problem jason? Right now I am going with the "just pull harder" theory

By JasonH
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jun 14, 2007
rating: V8

Hey Travis, were you out there on Saturday? If so, I saw your chalk on this problem on Sunday. It looked like you were missing an offensively small, but key, crimp up and right. I grab it with my right hand after grabbing the sharp left-hand diagonal edge. If you want more beta shoot me an email and I'll do my best to give you the blow-by-blow beta.

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Jun 17, 2007

I found the hold today that you spoke of....still not sure what to do. I was trying double pinches, bring feet up to the left nub and better hold on the right....and then....ooof...advice?

By JasonH
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jun 19, 2007
rating: V8

Beta to follow, so anyone not wanting beta for this problem quickly skip this post...

So from the double pinches I hike my left foot all the way to the starting hold (yes, this is offensively high). Then I bump my left hand up and left to a good (kinda sharp) edge. Switch feet, right foot is now on the starting hold and left foot is flagging. From here go right hand to the very small hold up and right. Heel hook left foot near your left hand and reach left hand all the way to the horizontal break. Right about the time my left hand hits the horizontal my feet cut and I quickly match as I am swinging off the problem. The first time I hit this break I pulled a large piece of rock off, (6 lbs or so, and this is pretty high up) I went flying, and my spotter Steve caught me and took the block to the arm. At first I thought his arm was broken. Fortunately, it was merely badly bruised and he couldn't climb for a few weeks. Thus, we named the problem Sandstone Violence and Steve has a new doorstop. After the horizontal, finish up the small dihedral above, which is pretty easy.

Good luck, let me now how it goes. Jason

By SteveSchultz
Jun 20, 2007

And it's a darn good doorstop, if i don't say so myself!

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Jul 5, 2007

Thanks for the beta. Its going down.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 6, 2008
rating: V8

I would just like to say that I love this problem. The first time I ever bouldered at the Dodge this caught my attention. It wouldn't matter if it was V12, I would still throw myself at it. Everytime I get on it I come closer and closer to unlocking the moves. Everything has to be just right. Anyway, great send by Jason, and a great Wisconsin classic.

By nicros fivten
Aug 23, 2008

And what is the crux of Sandstone Violence? is it grabbing the last crimp (after the sharp left hand). I climbed to the point of getting my fingers on the high right hand but slipping off (horrible conditions i.e. rain, heat, skin.) is the next move the crux? random questions I know, and maybe not the place but I was just wondering. And sense I am asking, how come that boulder problem (S.V.) has seen so few ascents? Not saying that it is not hard, or that people are not trying it, but I am wondering because I was blown away by it's perfectness (is that a word?)
-perfect start
-perfect holds
-perfect rock
-perfect height
-perfect moves

and drove 5 hours from Minnesota just to try the problem (after seeing it on this site). I am super bummed that I could not stay to finish it, but I had to drive back to MN in order to fly back to California (where I am now living),

I have digressed..
my rant is intended to tell all of the doubters, go.. go and try this boulder problem (and others) it is one of the best in the midwest.

I have already made plans to come back.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 23, 2008
rating: V8

Quote: "And what is the crux of Sandstone Violence?"

The last move to the horzontal break (after establishing on the right crimp, the next move). Once you get the sharp left hand, you have time, as you know it's the best hold on the route. But the last right crimp is very temperature and humidity dependent. 50F and no humidity is about perfect. 80F is bad. I agree it's a perfect route. By the way, why do you assume few ascents? Just wondering, I really have no idea.

By nicros fivten
Aug 24, 2008

I was told (by a local) that the problem had seen only 3. Is this not true? maybe I miss understood,

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 24, 2008
rating: V8

No idea. I'm pretty new to the area. I went to Boulders Gym (Madison) a bunch this past winter and there seemed to be a lot of strong dudes there, so if it's only seen 3, that would seem unusual, I agree. PM me when you come back if you wish, I love it at the Dodge.

By SteveSchultz
Aug 24, 2008

Hey guys,

Just some input from myself. yes the problem is perfect. it's hands down the classic line at dodge.

Nicros/Five ten, is this nic? if so, we met back at MORE. As far as i know the problem has only seen 1 ascent so far, jason's. at least none others that I've heard of. I worked it for a matter of days and figured out what I thought the best beta was and got to the last move but couldnt put it together before i got smoked by a block jason accidentally pulled off. i sort of lost interest for a while after that. it's the only send i've heard of though. that said, i've been out of the loop for the most part this year but am planning on coming back this fall to finish it up. i'm guessing that this bloc will get a bunch of sends this fall.

let me know when you are back in town and we'll head up there.

steve

By SteveSchultz
Aug 24, 2008

oh, and the crux is definitely going to the break. you should have no problem come fall.

By nicros fivten
Aug 24, 2008

yes this is nic... I am going to try and come back in october around the 18th? i am going to stop in and lay siege to this boulder (good thing the camping is close).

By sweatpants
From: Chicago, Il
Aug 24, 2008

Hey steve! what up bro. little fyi for everyone Chris that frequents this site has also sent S.V. but besides that I think they could be the only 2.
weeerrrddd,
sweaty

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 25, 2008
rating: V8

Yup. 4 days of effort spanning 9 months-- 40+ tries total until the send. Great beta, luck (training?), stretching for the high foot, and perfect weather in the end of May. Had no idea it was possibly the second ascent, just looked like a sweet line that needed some attention.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 14, 2008
rating: V8

Nice work Nic! I was a bit worried it would rain on you (again) out there yesterday. Apparently not...

By nicros fivten
Oct 18, 2008

SO pumped to do this, BOOSH!
we did shoot some video, http://borntobreathe.blogspot.com/2008/10/governor-dodge-sta>>>>>
I used a bit of different beta.. the high heel (or toe) at the end would have worked but I thought my beta at the end (just jump) worked better for me but could be harder? I think Sandstone Violence is solid at the grade of v8 AND (bold comment to follow) is one of, if not the BEST problems of it's grade in the Midwest (MN,WI,SD,ND,IA,).

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 18, 2008
rating: V8

So stoked on this problem, one of the best in the park! Finally sent today, the conditions were perfect.

By sweatpants
From: Chicago, Il
Nov 18, 2008

Yo man congrats remo!!! long time coming for both problems and im psyched for ya. word up

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 23, 2008
rating: V8

Today was another great day for friction addicts, the temps made the rock feel excellent. Dobbe came inches from finishing this thing off, next time- so stoked!

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Nov 25, 2008

Good job Remo! I'll be there this upcoming Saturday to give it a go.

By Brian Runnells
Nov 27, 2008
rating: V8

I highly recommend using the beta that Nic uses in the above linked video. The small right foot is key for the last move.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 27, 2008
rating: V8

Congrats Remo and Brian! Though I would stick with the original heel-hook beta myself...

By Langlois
Nov 27, 2008

Nice work remo

By Brian Runnells
Nov 30, 2008
rating: V8

To answer a question above, in my opinion the crux is moving off the right hand double pinch hold to the sharp left hand crimp. The last move is not that hard once you commit to it.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Dec 1, 2008

I worked this on Saturday with Jay Knower, Brian Runnels, Paul Campbell and Chris treggE. I got to watch Brian send it twice! I made some good progress on it. I can establish on the crimps and bring my left foot up for just a second before I pop off. I will be working the finger ring and head back next weekend for another go.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2009
rating: V8

Rumor is that Kelsen broke the key right foot for the final throw to the break. Damn Kelsen, now we all have to do it the heal hook way! Oh well, it is sandstone.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2009
rating: V8

I was kinda hoping someone who had sent and was motivated would try to flip flop on the beta to see which way was harder. Oh well.

EDIT: Oh yeah, on second thought, any of you foot chippers can still try heel hooking and let us know. I'm talking to you, Narc.

By Nick Rhoads
Mar 17, 2009

Damn it Kelsen! I was so close! To be fair I think that footchip was weak to begin with. I'm surprised Steve Schultz didn't break it first!
BUT still, see Dobbe's post on the main page, do NOT climb when it's wet!!!

By SteveSchultz
Mar 18, 2009

Sounds like, from talking to RV and Kelsen, that the chip is still there and still usable. Even if that thing breaks off all the way it's not going to change the grade. Jason did the FA with the left heel and the grade is firm that way.

Am I a notorious hold breaker??? I had no idea. Break one hand hold that doesn't change anything and my name goes to hell....

Also, sounded like basically everything was dry up there. That foot would have broken eventually I'm sure. In fact there are a couple of holds on that problem that could still break. Let's not freak out people.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 26, 2009
rating: V8

Foot chip is still there and fully functional. I am ready for the lynch mob, but IMHO the heel hook method is harder. I did the "just jump Nic" method today, only I went up to break with right hand instead of left (right hand is right there and I really really did not want to let go with my left hand) and it felt pretty reasonable. The jump method is perhaps more committing but the move felt easier. I wouldn't know V8 if it bit me in the ass, so I don't know what the rating should be, but heel hook felt harder. An awesome problem and I simply love it every time I pad it, chalk up, take a deep breath, and step up. Simply no other problem like it. Thanks to the Milwaukee crew for the extra pads and inspiration.

By nicros fivten
Mar 27, 2009

I agree with the last bit.. Jumping= way easier than heal hook.

I have climbed a few 8's and this (for me) was as hard as the rest but I do believe the conditions have a huge role in the difficulty of this problem.

both days I tried it it was moist and warm.... the first day I tried it holding the crimp after the pinches felt impossible. If someone said v7 I would argue that "Mikes Left"(V7+) at Taylors Falls feels a bit easier (very similar boulder problems).

so, here is how it works out.

Mikes Left=V7 (on the hard end)
Sandstone Violence= V8 (low end?)

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 27, 2009
rating: V8

Yeah I could see the heel being harder for sure, but Nic is right the conditions for this thing are key to sending(mid summer=not good). I have sent a few V8's out west and this feels just as hard or harder. People say that Wisconsin is sandbagged, but because of the awesome feedback we all give I think the Dodge is solid for the grades.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 3, 2009
rating: V8

Nice work Travis!!!

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
May 3, 2009

YES! Good beta chris. That ankle was not sprained in vain!

By VNESS
May 3, 2009

Travis Melin sent the bejesus out of this route today......it was breathe-taking

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 4, 2009
rating: V8

Yeah Trav!

By NorMN
May 5, 2009

Nice job Travis, only two tries! Impressive. Wish I could have ticked it that day too. Didn't want to dilute your glory though!

By Langlois
Nov 29, 2009

Dobbe sent today! Also he repeated battle of the bulge, highly excecuted and strong men. Remo made a great repeat of SV on his first go. Good day

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 29, 2009
rating: V8

The Backbone Trifecta plus SMAC! Wow Dobbe.

By sweatpants
From: Chicago, Il
Nov 29, 2009

Well Done Dobbe! Sounds like it was a great day.

By Dobbe
Nov 29, 2009

Super pumped to final get this today! It was long over due. I have been trying this with out any regularity for two seasons. Such a great problem.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 30, 2009
rating: V8

Yeah Dobbe! The guy had a great day!

By Langlois
Dec 3, 2009


Video:smellen

By sweatpants
From: Chicago, Il
Dec 3, 2009

I love how you can hear Remo getting increasingly closer with each cheer he makes and move up Dobbe makes.

P.S. Someone should start making a laptop that is on its side so i dont have to keep manually spinning. In fact i may invent a laptop that has a handy button I can press that will just spin the screen for me. Genius. I will make millions.

By Dobbe
Dec 3, 2009

I think the side view is slimming. Thanks for making me look my best Ryan.

By sweatpants
From: Chicago, Il
Dec 3, 2009

Imagine if you were sporting some vertical stripes... Talk about slender and sexy.

By Langlois
Dec 4, 2009

When I figure out how to rotate the video I'll edit some stripes in. It's a full time job making Dobbe look that good