Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Group Camp B, Plan B Area + Backbone Ridge
Show routes:
Select route...
10. Resolution 
11. Leaning Rock 
12. 
12a 
13. Viatamin V-less 
14. Sandstone Violence 
15. Nameless 
16. Wright's Arete 
17. 
18. 
19. crack 
2. Napolean Complex 
20. Picasso Right 
21. Picasso center 
22. Picasso Left 
23. Get the Hell Outa Dodge 
3. Speration Anxiety 
4. The Seperatist 
5. High Anxiety 
6. Smack crack Left 
7. Smack Crack Right 
8. Veasy 
9. Split Personality 
Ashmatica 
Dangle 
Face Left of Wright's Arete 
Firing Squad, The 
Foothold Massacre 
Full Execution Project 
Guillotine Left, The 
Guillotine Right, The 
Hangman 
Hustons Arete 
Internet Predator 
Left out 
Lethal Injection 
Massacre Direct 
Mr. Longarm 
Project 
Scarete 
slugs 
ticks 

14. Sandstone Violence 

V8

   

FA: Jason Huston
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V8 [details]
Views: 777 page views

Submitted By: Jeremy Schlick on Oct 27, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Relativity Block. Project goes right up the cente...


Description 

In many ways THE line on the backbone. Start out in the middle of the block on a good sidepull. Work straight up past hard holds and an almost ghostlike crimp up high to the horizontal. Go up through a niche at the top. A very tall, proud line.


Location 

Backbone


Protection 

-



Add Photo Photos of 14. Sandstone Violence
A lousy shot but it gives you the scale of things.

A lousy shot but it gives you the scale of things....

Kelsen squeezing hard.

Kelsen squeezing hard.

Establishing myself on the two pinches.

Establishing myself on the two pinches.

Route by Erosion, beta by Huston, photo by Shantan.  Spring 08.

Route by Erosion, beta by Huston, photo by Shantan...

Ben pulling off the high foot on SV.  Photo by Kelly.  July 08.

Ben pulling off the high foot on SV. Photo by Kel...

Checking out the opening moves.  It's never too early to start picking up the beta for this problem.  Photo by Kelly.  July 08.

Checking out the opening moves. It's never too ea...

He's a little short yet to pull off the first moves to the double pinch so we're trying to find some new beta.  Photo by Kelly.

He's a little short yet to pull off the first move...


Add Comment Comments on 14. Sandstone Violence
Show which comments
By SteveSchultz
Nov 6, 2006

we're guessing it'll go in the v8/9 range

By JasonH
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 19, 2006
rating: V8

A project no more.
"Sandstone Violence" V8 FA: Jason Huston

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI
Jun 9, 2007

any beta for someone working the problem jason? Right now I am going with the "just pull harder" theory

By JasonH
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jun 14, 2007
rating: V8

Hey Travis, were you out there on Saturday? If so, I saw your chalk on this problem on Sunday. It looked like you were missing an offensively small, but key, crimp up and right. I grab it with my right hand after grabbing the sharp left-hand diagonal edge. If you want more beta shoot me an email and I'll do my best to give you the blow-by-blow beta.

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI
Jun 17, 2007

I found the hold today that you spoke of....still not sure what to do. I was trying double pinches, bring feet up to the left nub and better hold on the right....and then....ooof...advice?

By JasonH
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jun 19, 2007
rating: V8

Beta to follow, so anyone not wanting beta for this problem quickly skip this post...

So from the double pinches I hike my left foot all the way to the starting hold (yes, this is offensively high). Then I bump my left hand up and left to a good (kinda sharp) edge. Switch feet, right foot is now on the starting hold and left foot is flagging. From here go right hand to the very small hold up and right. Heel hook left foot near your left hand and reach left hand all the way to the horizontal break. Right about the time my left hand hits the horizontal my feet cut and I quickly match as I am swinging off the problem. The first time I hit this break I pulled a large piece of rock off, (6 lbs or so, and this is pretty high up) I went flying, and my spotter Steve caught me and took the block to the arm. At first I thought his arm was broken. Fortunately, it was merely badly bruised and he couldn't climb for a few weeks. Thus, we named the problem Sandstone Violence and Steve has a new doorstop. After the horizontal, finish up the small dihedral above, which is pretty easy.

Good luck, let me now how it goes. Jason

By SteveSchultz
Jun 20, 2007

And it's a darn good doorstop, if i don't say so myself!

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI
Jul 5, 2007

Thanks for the beta. Its going down.