Sandstone Violence 

we're guessing it'll go in the v8/9 range

A project no more.
"Sandstone Violence" V8 FA: Jason Huston

any beta for someone working the problem jason? Right now I am going with the "just pull harder" theory

Hey Travis, were you out there on Saturday? If so, I saw your chalk on this problem on Sunday. It looked like you were missing an offensively small, but key, crimp up and right. I grab it with my right hand after grabbing the sharp left-hand diagonal edge. If you want more beta shoot me an email and I'll do my best to give you the blow-by-blow beta.

I found the hold today that you spoke of....still not sure what to do. I was trying double pinches, bring feet up to the left nub and better hold on the right....and then....ooof...advice?

Beta to follow, so anyone not wanting beta for this problem quickly skip this post...

So from the double pinches I hike my left foot all the way to the starting hold (yes, this is offensively high). Then I bump my left hand up and left to a good (kinda sharp) edge. Switch feet, right foot is now on the starting hold and left foot is flagging. From here go right hand to the very small hold up and right. Heel hook left foot near your left hand and reach left hand all the way to the horizontal break. Right about the time my left hand hits the horizontal my feet cut and I quickly match as I am swinging off the problem. The first time I hit this break I pulled a large piece of rock off, (6 lbs or so, and this is pretty high up) I went flying, and my spotter Steve caught me and took the block to the arm. At first I thought his arm was broken. Fortunately, it was merely badly bruised and he couldn't climb for a few weeks. Thus, we named the problem Sandstone Violence and Steve has a new doorstop. After the horizontal, finish up the small dihedral above, which is pretty easy.

Good luck, let me now how it goes. Jason

And it's a darn good doorstop, if i don't say so myself!

Thanks for the beta. Its going down.

I would just like to say that I love this problem. The first time I ever bouldered at the Dodge this caught my attention. It wouldn't matter if it was V12, I would still throw myself at it. Everytime I get on it I come closer and closer to unlocking the moves. Everything has to be just right. Anyway, great send by Jason, and a great Wisconsin classic.

And what is the crux of Sandstone Violence? is it grabbing the last crimp (after the sharp left hand). I climbed to the point of getting my fingers on the high right hand but slipping off (horrible conditions i.e. rain, heat, skin.) is the next move the crux? random questions I know, and maybe not the place but I was just wondering. And sense I am asking, how come that boulder problem (S.V.) has seen so few ascents? Not saying that it is not hard, or that people are not trying it, but I am wondering because I was blown away by it's perfectness (is that a word?)
-perfect start
-perfect holds
-perfect rock
-perfect height
-perfect moves

and drove 5 hours from Minnesota just to try the problem (after seeing it on this site). I am super bummed that I could not stay to finish it, but I had to drive back to MN in order to fly back to California (where I am now living),

I have digressed..
my rant is intended to tell all of the doubters, go.. go and try this boulder problem (and others) it is one of the best in the midwest.

I have already made plans to come back.

Quote: "And what is the crux of Sandstone Violence?"

The last move to the horzontal break (after establishing on the right crimp, the next move). Once you get the sharp left hand, you have time, as you know it's the best hold on the route. But the last right crimp is very temperature and humidity dependent. 50F and no humidity is about perfect. 80F is bad. I agree it's a perfect route. By the way, why do you assume few ascents? Just wondering, I really have no idea.

I was told (by a local) that the problem had seen only 3. Is this not true? maybe I miss understood,

No idea. I'm pretty new to the area. I went to Boulders Gym (Madison) a bunch this past winter and there seemed to be a lot of strong dudes there, so if it's only seen 3, that would seem unusual, I agree. PM me when you come back if you wish, I love it at the Dodge.

Hey guys,

Just some input from myself. yes the problem is perfect. it's hands down the classic line at dodge.

Nicros/Five ten, is this nic? if so, we met back at MORE. As far as i know the problem has only seen 1 ascent so far, jason's. at least none others that I've heard of. I worked it for a matter of days and figured out what I thought the best beta was and got to the last move but couldnt put it together before i got smoked by a block jason accidentally pulled off. i sort of lost interest for a while after that. it's the only send i've heard of though. that said, i've been out of the loop for the most part this year but am planning on coming back this fall to finish it up. i'm guessing that this bloc will get a bunch of sends this fall.

let me know when you are back in town and we'll head up there.

steve

oh, and the crux is definitely going to the break. you should have no problem come fall.

yes this is nic... I am going to try and come back in october around the 18th? i am going to stop in and lay siege to this boulder (good thing the camping is close).

Hey steve! what up bro. little fyi for everyone Chris that frequents this site has also sent S.V. but besides that I think they could be the only 2.
weeerrrddd,
sweaty

Yup. 4 days of effort spanning 9 months-- 40+ tries total until the send. Great beta, luck (training?), stretching for the high foot, and perfect weather in the end of May. Had no idea it was possibly the second ascent, just looked like a sweet line that needed some attention.

Nice work Nic! I was a bit worried it would rain on you (again) out there yesterday. Apparently not...

SO pumped to do this, BOOSH!
we did shoot some video, http://borntobreathe.blogspot.com/2008/10/governor-dodge-sta>>>>>
I used a bit of different beta.. the high heel (or toe) at the end would have worked but I thought my beta at the end (just jump) worked better for me but could be harder? I think Sandstone Violence is solid at the grade of v8 AND (bold comment to follow) is one of, if not the BEST problems of it's grade in the Midwest (MN,WI,SD,ND,IA,).

So stoked on this problem, one of the best in the park! Finally sent today, the conditions were perfect.

Yo man congrats remo!!! long time coming for both problems and im psyched for ya. word up

Today was another great day for friction addicts, the temps made the rock feel excellent. Dobbe came inches from finishing this thing off, next time- so stoked!

Good job Remo! I'll be there this upcoming Saturday to give it a go.

I highly recommend using the beta that Nic uses in the above linked video. The small right foot is key for the last move.

Congrats Remo and Brian! Though I would stick with the original heel-hook beta myself...

Nice work remo

To answer a question above, in my opinion the crux is moving off the right hand double pinch hold to the sharp left hand crimp. The last move is not that hard once you commit to it.

I worked this on Saturday with Jay Knower, Brian Runnels, Paul Campbell and Chris treggE. I got to watch Brian send it twice! I made some good progress on it. I can establish on the crimps and bring my left foot up for just a second before I pop off. I will be working the finger ring and head back next weekend for another go.

Rumor is that Kelsen broke the key right foot for the final throw to the break. Damn Kelsen, now we all have to do it the heal hook way! Oh well, it is sandstone.

I was kinda hoping someone who had sent and was motivated would try to flip flop on the beta to see which way was harder. Oh well.

EDIT: Oh yeah, on second thought, any of you foot chippers can still try heel hooking and let us know. I'm talking to you, Narc.

Damn it Kelsen! I was so close! To be fair I think that footchip was weak to begin with. I'm surprised Steve Schultz didn't break it first!
BUT still, see Dobbe's post on the main page, do NOT climb when it's wet!!!

Sounds like, from talking to RV and Kelsen, that the chip is still there and still usable. Even if that thing breaks off all the way it's not going to change the grade. Jason did the FA with the left heel and the grade is firm that way.

Am I a notorious hold breaker??? I had no idea. Break one hand hold that doesn't change anything and my name goes to hell....

Also, sounded like basically everything was dry up there. That foot would have broken eventually I'm sure. In fact there are a couple of holds on that problem that could still break. Let's not freak out people.

Foot chip is still there and fully functional. I am ready for the lynch mob, but IMHO the heel hook method is harder. I did the "just jump Nic" method today, only I went up to break with right hand instead of left (right hand is right there and I really really did not want to let go with my left hand) and it felt pretty reasonable. The jump method is perhaps more committing but the move felt easier. I wouldn't know V8 if it bit me in the ass, so I don't know what the rating should be, but heel hook felt harder. An awesome problem and I simply love it every time I pad it, chalk up, take a deep breath, and step up. Simply no other problem like it. Thanks to the Milwaukee crew for the extra pads and inspiration.

I agree with the last bit.. Jumping= way easier than heal hook.

I have climbed a few 8's and this (for me) was as hard as the rest but I do believe the conditions have a huge role in the difficulty of this problem.

both days I tried it it was moist and warm.... the first day I tried it holding the crimp after the pinches felt impossible. If someone said v7 I would argue that "Mikes Left"(V7+) at Taylors Falls feels a bit easier (very similar boulder problems).

so, here is how it works out.

Mikes Left=V7 (on the hard end)
Sandstone Violence= V8 (low end?)

Yeah I could see the heel being harder for sure, but Nic is right the conditions for this thing are key to sending(mid summer=not good). I have sent a few V8's out west and this feels just as hard or harder. People say that Wisconsin is sandbagged, but because of the awesome feedback we all give I think the Dodge is solid for the grades.

Nice work Travis!!!

YES! Good beta chris. That ankle was not sprained in vain!

Travis Melin sent the bejesus out of this route today......it was breathe-taking

Yeah Trav!

Nice job Travis, only two tries! Impressive. Wish I could have ticked it that day too. Didn't want to dilute your glory though!

Dobbe sent today! Also he repeated battle of the bulge, highly excecuted and strong men. Remo made a great repeat of SV on his first go. Good day

The Backbone Trifecta plus SMAC! Wow Dobbe.

Well Done Dobbe! Sounds like it was a great day.

Super pumped to final get this today! It was long over due. I have been trying this with out any regularity for two seasons. Such a great problem.

Yeah Dobbe! The guy had a great day!

I love how you can hear Remo getting increasingly closer with each cheer he makes and move up Dobbe makes.

P.S. Someone should start making a laptop that is on its side so i dont have to keep manually spinning. In fact i may invent a laptop that has a handy button I can press that will just spin the screen for me. Genius. I will make millions.

I think the side view is slimming. Thanks for making me look my best Ryan.

Imagine if you were sporting some vertical stripes... Talk about slender and sexy.

When I figure out how to rotate the video I'll edit some stripes in. It's a full time job making Dobbe look that good