14. Sandstone Violence 

we're guessing it'll go in the v8/9 range

A project no more.
"Sandstone Violence" V8 FA: Jason Huston

any beta for someone working the problem jason? Right now I am going with the "just pull harder" theory

Hey Travis, were you out there on Saturday? If so, I saw your chalk on this problem on Sunday. It looked like you were missing an offensively small, but key, crimp up and right. I grab it with my right hand after grabbing the sharp left-hand diagonal edge. If you want more beta shoot me an email and I'll do my best to give you the blow-by-blow beta.

I found the hold today that you spoke of....still not sure what to do. I was trying double pinches, bring feet up to the left nub and better hold on the right....and then....ooof...advice?

Beta to follow, so anyone not wanting beta for this problem quickly skip this post...

So from the double pinches I hike my left foot all the way to the starting hold (yes, this is offensively high). Then I bump my left hand up and left to a good (kinda sharp) edge. Switch feet, right foot is now on the starting hold and left foot is flagging. From here go right hand to the very small hold up and right. Heel hook left foot near your left hand and reach left hand all the way to the horizontal break. Right about the time my left hand hits the horizontal my feet cut and I quickly match as I am swinging off the problem. The first time I hit this break I pulled a large piece of rock off, (6 lbs or so, and this is pretty high up) I went flying, and my spotter Steve caught me and took the block to the arm. At first I thought his arm was broken. Fortunately, it was merely badly bruised and he couldn't climb for a few weeks. Thus, we named the problem Sandstone Violence and Steve has a new doorstop. After the horizontal, finish up the small dihedral above, which is pretty easy.

Good luck, let me now how it goes. Jason

And it's a darn good doorstop, if i don't say so myself!

Thanks for the beta. Its going down.