Start at jugs down in the middle of the face. Move up and right over good holds until your hugging the shield. Climb up arete. I have a feeling that this one may end in an all out dyno for the top. I wouldn't mind having a couple beefy pads down below...
Location
Far left of Plan B-- go to the saddle between Backbone and Plan B, walk south east along a faint trail near High Anxiety. Walk about 3 minutes, round the corner and there you are. "Venom" and "Things just got harder" are to the left of Huston's Arete.
JJ, Surprisingly no. Steve, nor I, could hold onto the lip moving dynamically. It yielded to a slightly lower right foot and a left hand/foot match, followed by a slow move to the top. Regardless, really cool area you found/breathed some life back into here. Some excellent problems!
As a side note, this is route #1 in Jeremy's topo to the area.
I don't think I would have wanted to dyno off of any of the holds that I was on. I just sort of grovelled my way onto some sharp small holds and got my feet up on the big holds at the start and I was able to reach up to the jug at the top.
the other day me and Remo did the right line with out the arete and then established on the small crimps and threw for the lip and both got it. I don't now if this is mostly the same as Hustons arete or not but it was a super fun line. Very bad upper holds.
By sweatpants From: Chicago, Il Jul 30, 2008 rating: V5-
haha gross. those holds at the top are hurtful as i remember from doing hustons... i would say that should be a new route/grade that you should name and throw on the site. brave men to get on those crimps again. Good work guys
last summer i was climbing a route that i think was just to the left of this, started sitting in the middle of the slab both hands on a big pinch and then stood up to stick a large undercling after that some small side pulls. i ended up working the left arete to get to the top but was wondering if the route was established and if anyone could tell me the name and or rating????
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