Boulder of Clarity, on the way to Illusions of Paradise. Route starts on right hand jug and left hand on the arete. The face of this boulder looks heinous with a terrible landing. The landing for this route is good!
Protection
Three pads maybe more....unless you're Midwest Hardcore :)
i think im gonna hop on the face to the right and try a few moves next weekend if it's dry. it needs some cleaning and cojones, but it will go for sure
Yes, the face to the right will go, and it does need some cleaning but I suggest you think real FUCKING hard about what will happen if you peel off, because it won't be pretty. It gave me a real pause and I don't think anyone could call me a pussy around here, except Huston. I suggest using a TR first. Based on your brief profile for MP, it would seem you might be qualified for the job, if so and you feel "safe" on this thing, I say take it down!
This is Paul from the gym. Yes, TR for sure until I can do it in my sleep. There's not too much you can do about pads (besides cover the rock) cause the landing is just that bad so you really have to commit. I think I have the balls to do it though. That is once it's cleaned and chalked up a bit.
Ok Paul, now knowing that it's you I suggest building your resume on established highballs before taking on a death route. If someone gets badly hurt at the Dodge the Rangers will be VERY unhappy and like I've said before access is sensitive. You could be potentially ruining it for everyone. Vinny and I agree, you will be able to pull extremely hard some day but pulling hard is only half the battle and the easier half at that. If you want to do it let us work out a route list for you, work on and send those routes, and then you can start to really impress people. For a perspective to others reading this FF is 5 feet shorter than the face to the right and has a good landing. Peace, Rhoads
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Apr 27, 2009
"If you want to do it let us work out a route list for you, work on and send those routes, and then you can start to really impress people."
Paul, climbing doesn't have to be like this. Follow your psyche. If you want to do something, you don't need anyone to approve beforehand. Just be smart, be safe, and have fun.
Well said, Jay. Be safe, but if you really want to do something just do it.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Apr 27, 2009
Quote Paul Dieterle: "This is Paul from the gym. Yes, TR for sure until I can do it in my sleep. There's not too much you can do about pads (besides cover the rock) cause the landing is just that bad so you really have to commit. I think I have the balls to do it though. That is once it's cleaned and chalked up a bit."
Just be safe Paul. I messed my ankle pretty good peeling from the top of the Backbone Ridge. Only now is it starting to feel pretty normal (6 months later), and that was a flat landing on a problem I had done before without difficulty.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Apr 27, 2009
Hey Paul let one of us know when you guys are heading out, I would love to join you in your quest for the highballs. It's a feverish drug that keeps you coming back for more. If your stoked on something who cares if its been done before, just be smart, have fun, and have spotters and plenty of pads. Good luck man!
Ok Remo. I need to meet some of you guys cause my dad gets a little burned out trying to keep up. I'm new to the area and sport (6 months in the area, 4 in the sport), but I'm hungry to improve and do some hard lines.
I agree, highballs are so addicting. My first real one was 'The Hunk' and a line on the 40 foot peabody boulder (with one pad) in Bishop a few weeks ago. I agree with safety though. If I want to live to be 16, I'll have to be careful.
I'm probably going out to the Dodge on Wednesday after school (arriving close to 4), but it's a weird time. other than that, I usually go on weekends when my dad can drive me. I also climb in Boulders monday and thursday with the team.
Thanks for all the advice, help, etc. and sorry for the unintentional autobiography, Paul
I'm not trying to give him "approval" I'm trying to help develop his climbing (Paul is on our climbing team). Jay, I don't think you have seen this face, it needs serious cleaning and the landing is very bad. I'm not saying he can't do it but in 6 months of climbing I don't believe a person can develop the proper "head" for this. I'm simply suggesting a course of action here, not demanding it. It is something to work up to and it sounds like Paul knows this.
Regarding "FA Fever" I think if someone is doing something strictly for the FA to post it on this site they are missing the point. I'm not accusing Paul of this, simply reminding him that an FA isn't everything and not worth certain unreasonable risks.
I will be out there all day Wednesday, so I could meet you guys later for sure. Rhoads I was referring to Highball fever and if anyone knows what this is its you, but FAs are fun too.
ok sounds good. ill look for you...im pretty sure ill recognize you. (i think i asked you if you were in climbing magazine climbing the Waimea Wall...as a side note that was Jay). anyways, just for the record, im trying to repeat as many hard routes as i can before i start doing FA's.
EDIT: My dad has a massive bike ride on wednesday so i can't make it to G-Dodge. maybe friday and definitely over the weekend though!
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Apr 28, 2009
Remo SHOULD be in climbing mag, not Jay's ugly mug!!!!