Broken Dreams 

I wasn't sure on the grade. It could just be a hard 6 but i hate giving something a slash grade so if people get after it and think it's a 6 i will change it straight away.

Figuring out the beta for this thing was a real pain in the ass and took us a long time and a lot of tries to get it all sussed out. Enjoy, it is a good bit of fun for sure

Sweet video. Looks like a really cool problem with good movement. Cant you put up some FAs with shorter approaches?

Look Trav. I can't control the magic. The magic just happens. However, If you just cut 45 degrees from barrel ridge and dont bother going up there and then over, it's a rather flat hike.

But from now on I will try to contain my magic to convenient places for you my friend :-)

Nice Sweaty. Looks like fun!

Reason to go get another tick bite!

thats it. i get woken up at 8 in the morning for that comment... weak :-)

Geez dude, 8am!!! Rise and shine!!! Good work on the sends and FA!

haha thanks bro

Very nice problem John.

I was climbing this today and couldnt stick the pinch from the left hand crimp. so I locked off and went static and the next thing i knew i was on the ground with the crimp in my hand. It is now only the sloper, and i still sent. Excellent problem, fantastic movement.

are u speaking of the large iron deposit crimp in the middle of the wall? no breaking giant holds, that is illegal... but it's still climbable so i forgive you. :-) glad you guys like it!

Not that hold, it was about 6 inches to the right of that pinchy sloper thing in the crack out left

I know the crimp you busted well, I was using it for Titty Twister. TT just got harder, I guess. Such is life. I am not sure anyone else was using it for Broken Dreams...

sorry.

Don't be sorry dude!!! When I was working TT I was concerned the crimp wouldn't hold up to the abuse. I'm just glad you ended up on your back and not me LOL.

ohh gotcha.

Nice video, looks like you did a stand start though. I thought that ABC started matched up on the lowest hold?

Perhaps but it's a matter of like 4 inches and doesn't add anything to awkwardly match on the lowest hold to make an easy move to the left hand. Seems much more natural to start split and doesnt change the grade. Obviously thats in my opinion so take that for what it's worth.

It may be more natural, but I thought starting low on ABC was fine. Though, it certainly makes it easier to start at the second move of most problems. Regardless, I will have to get back out to gov. dodge to check out these new problems that have been going up.

Exactly! It makes MOST problems easier... The point here is that it doesn't make either of THESE problems easier. It does not add or subtract from the grade by starting in a more natural position as I have done here. The reason being it you are standing on a huge ledge... not sure this 'discrepancy' was worth pointing out and seems like you're just pointing something out to be negative. Good luck on your future trips to the dodge.

Not trying to be negative. Actually I was trying to figure out where ABC started, hence the question mark. When I did ABC, I spent 10 minutes trying to sit start to the left of the arete, it seemed to be the natural sit start. I ended up starting matched on the lower hold, to the right of the arete and this felt consistent with the grade.

However, starting at the second hold does make the problem easier. Maybe it doesn't change the grade, but it is still one less hand and foot move. Just my 2 cents. I am more of a sport climber and typically like longer problems, so I try to do a lower start whenever possible.

One of the reasons I like rock climbing is that there isn't a referee, telling me what the rules are. Maybe if any of us were sponsored this would matter in the slightest (well, at least one mp.com Gov Dodge page regular is sponsored, but I would guess nobody else is). It's easy to be misinterpreted online since comments are black and white and intent is not always clear from the content of your post. Regardless, Broken Dreams is what it is, a super cool line with good movement that is unique for the Dodge. Start it how you like, it's not a competition. Just be honest with yourself and your friends, if anyone asks. Send me a PM when you go out next Chris, if I'm not working I'm always down to head out there, esp. with a capable spotter. You too John. Peace.

This is a fun problem, good work Sweaty. IMHO easier than A.B.C.

Glad u liked it dude! Interesting thoughts for sure. I thought it wad harder just cause I flashed ABC and this took me a bunch of goes. FA's are always harder though I suppose.

Yeah dude, nice flash!

I thought ABC was harder too but I think John makes it a lot easier for the rest of us by posting vids (which is cool). IME seeing a video (or someone else send in-person) before trying a problem makes it seem a lot easier. And yeah John, I think an FA always is harder than repeats. Esp. when you are not sure it will even go. Something psychological about it. Anyway, just random worthless internet musings.