An icy January day, with extensive snow brooming r...
Description
Governor Dodge State Park has numerous rock features. Some are suitable for climbing, and some (perhaps most) are not. The overarching consideration for anyone climbing at Governor Dodge should be climbing only on formations that can hold up to the abuse. The rock here is Sandstone, and some of it is solid. Much of it, though, is fragile or crumbly and should be left alone. The rocks came before the climbers, so the rocks have the right to remain. Climbers aren't exactly adored by the DNR, so be overly considerate of the rock and other park users. The climbing history at Governor Dodge is not nearly as storied as it is at Devil's Lake, so we as climbers can take nothing for granted (not that you should at the Lake, either). There are some bolted routes at Governor Dodge. When the DNR found these it did not make them happy, so further bolting of routes is not acceptable. That said, enjoy!
Getting There
From Madison, take Hwy 18/151 to Dodgeville. Turn right (north) on Hwy 23 until you come to the entrance a few miles up the road. The park is on the east side of Hwy 23.
Hey, I am just starting to climb (I own minimal equipment, and only have bouldering experience). But, if anyone climbs at governor dodge and would like some company, I am always willing to go.
There is a supposedly classic bolted line at Governor Dodge called Secret Agent Man. Does anyone have any info about this route? I have heard rumblings about the route over the years, though I have never gotten solid information.
I don't know the names of any of the climbs, but I did do the most classic line within my ability. The line was the first one you come across and was about 10-12 bolts....the longest of the group. I think the rating was about 11a/b, maybe a bit harder.
Had to back clean a couple draws in order to make it to the top. The thing was kinda like the Energizer Bunny...kept going and going.
Secret Agent Man...great DEVO tune. Kinda dates me I guess.
There is a small bevy of really good bolted routes at "The Gov" to be found near the horse barn area. I do not know names for these routes and I have not climbed (or attempted) all of them but I can tell you they are very fun and hard routes. 9 bolted routes total plus a few typically sketchy southern WI sandstone trad leads as well. I haven't attempted all these routes but I can tell you that the far right one on the cliff band as one looks up at the routes from below could maybe be the route you are asking about. It is a good route for Wisconsin. Long, steep, sustained, pretty well bolted, great exposure at the top, and a tough devious crux near the top. The whole route is in your face and I really liked it. Couldn't nearly climb it clean but you can bet I am going back to make another go at it. Grade- hard 5.11, maybe harder. The moves for me (especially the crux) felt as hard or harder then "Amy's Route" and "Stroke the Ego" on the Rhumbus at Gibraltar.
I pulled a carabiner (looked like a bail biner) off the bolt at the crux of the route (we are raving about here) last Friday. Is it yours? Let me know what the make and model is and it's yours!! Are you TG? Just wonder'n?
I just want to take a moment to fill in some gaps about the routes at Governor Dodge. I found the wall by the horse barn in 96/97. I called it the Qual Wall. Seth Dyer and I started bolting the best looking routes in the fall of 97. Our intention then was to have one area in the park with decent climbing and easy access. After hiking nearly every ridge in the park, I knew that the Qual Wall was about it, aside from Rich Bechlar and Rob Drysdale's esoteric Deutschelander Uber Alles near Cox valley. If you find this route, Rich wants it left as a toprope. There is a pin in it to keep you in and a few other lines nearby.
So, at the Qual Wall from left to right.
1. A Schmitt/Sepsen route? Large underclings to pockets to face. 5.10? I don't know the name.
2. A Schmitt/Sepsen route? Face. 5.10-? Don't know the name.
3. A Schmitt/Sepsen route? Face. 5.9+? Don't know the name
4. Now or Never. 5.11+/12-. Steep crimp ladder/black w/ green streak.
5. A Red Recollection. 5.11- Steep layback rib to roof. Now featuring anchors.
6. Secret Agent Man. 5.13-? (Some holds have broke) Can't miss it. Arete, to corner, to roof, to sweeping arete. Climbs the left side to anchors.
7. Schmitt/Sepsen route. I toproped it before the bolts, but don't remember much. Starts on Secret Agent Man and goes to the right side of arete in chimney. No anchors.
8. Schmitt/Sepsen route. Thin face leading into chimney??? Haven't been on it. I have heard a 5.13 grade rumored though. Don't know about anchors.
9. Unlisted Number. 5.11/11+ depending on how tall you are. Technical face to a sweeping little headwall.
10. Schmitt/Sepsen route. 5.12- Long face, some dubious rock.
That's about that. I have been down in AZ for long time but back for a while. See y'all around.
P.S. Help keep Wisconsin's routes clean- Git on 'em...
I was just at Gov. Dogde this past weekend for the first time (for climbing). That layback route "A Red Recollection" is pretty sweet; we noticed it just as we were leaving. I had only enough time to get past the first few moves, before we had to leave. I'm def. going back next week to send it though. The rock seemed to be in pretty good shape as well, although it is pretty soft and crumbly in other spots.
I just got back from "The Gov" a few hours ago, it was sweet! Anyway somebody was there earlier in the week (before the rain), and left some gear there. Since it had already been rained on and been there for a few days we grabbed the stuff in hopes that it can be returned. If anyone know anyone who climbed at the main wall with bolted routes between 7/30 and 8/5 and left some gear behind let them know to contact me at thane1200 at Hotmail dot com. They can describe what they lost and I'll be happy to return it.
Thanx
EDIT: THE OWNER HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED AND GEAR IS BEING RETURNED.
I need some beta on GD. If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it.... How many routes are there? I hear there's easy stuff - 5.7-5.9 - and moderates? True? How do I find the climbing area?
A group of us went out there today. Beautiful day in the 60's and we had great conditions. Deff places need to be cleaned off now that some hand/foot holds are broken be careful. The hike up to the rocks was really slippery with the freshly fallin leaves. Be careful where you step up there.
Any chance of you throwing Qual Wall up on the site? I was there a couple of weeks agao, and it was sweet. It should really be up as an area, and I figured you were the person to post it.
I was waiting to get some excellent photos of the routes, but I am now back down in Arizona for the winter. I may just post it anyway sometime soon... JJ
Does anyone have any further information about route #8 JJ posted about a little ways up in this discussion? I did it this last January on a rather cold day and had been told this was an fa...Just curious if there was any truth to that? I avoided use of the chimney/left wall/crack, and continued on the thin face, eventually joining Unlisted Number at the top. Fun route with a vicious boulder problem through the first few bolts, the third was hard to clip until I was above it, which led to a few rather exciting, ground-nearing falls. Thanks.
Went to the Qual Wall today and started submitting routes here. Being that all my information comes via word-of-mouth and personal experience, if I have erred, let me know and I'll make the necessary changes. By the way, the routes are really quite good.
any info on the line that goes up the arete on the left side of the secret agent wall, no bolts yet. It looks like someone is projecting it. Any guess at the grade.
Ive seen that too, and have been curious, looks a little rotten though doesnt it? so I havent heard anything about that one dobbe, but i got on the face between S.A.M and the 5.10 crack. If you climb the face then move right ,and finish with the crux of S.A.M i think it would be about a 13something.
Melin good to here from you. I sold my house in Wausau so I don't have to go and work on it any more so I might have time to get strong and start working some stuff with you. I'm going to the hollow Friday at like 2 then to rib on Saturday. keep me updated if you are going any where soon.
Linked above is a topo to the Qual Wall that I created last winter. I was hoping to make the guide far bigger and include the bouldering. But alas, I moved away and never finished it. So this topo has been sitting on my computer for over a year. It also has a number of mistakes, mainly route names. I would like to correct these, but I no longer have the program (InDesign) that I created it with. So please visit the mountainproject pages and update your topo from there. Or if you have InDesign and wouldn't mind updating this, I will gladly send you a copy of the guide and you could edit it for me!!! One last correction - I think the grade of Fahrenheit 23 is rather overgraded; probably around 12b or c or so, but get on it and let us know what you think, it can be updated from there - I just was using SAM as a standard for the grade and this took me more tries. So whatever, have fun out there!!!
One flaw i have found in this site is the inability to change details on climbs. for instance if someone loads a new climb as project no one but the person who initially reported it can change the name or grade. for instance that highball at Camp B that someone gave a grade of 6+ that's a v2. it would be nice to be able to change something like that so it doesnt mess people up in the future going to the area for the first time. Also it would be nice to be able to change a name once an FA is done. For instance the bulge project at camp b has 2 variations. when it's done it will then prolly have 2 names and 2 grades where at that point it would be nice to adjust it accordingly. just some thoughts...
Yeah I agree it's an issue. You should have seen the Red Wing (Barn Bluff, MN) route list a year ago. However, the folks who first post up a climb will almost universally alter the FA info once it is known, or change the name of the climb for the FA person, etc. (if you just post it below the climb or PM them). An administrator can "reassign" the climb to someone else also if needed, just PM Jay Knower and tell him your issue and ask what he can do to help you out or troubleshoot a particular issue. As far as that V6+, I am not sure what is up with that. All we can do in that case is to put in what you think it should be rated, and the "consensus" rating will eventually reflect reality once enough people weigh in.
Sweatpants, I'd be happy to make any changes that you see fit. Just email me and let me know.
As for ratings, some disagreement is normal and healthy for the site. However, if the original poster is waaay off (like calling a V2 a V6+) then, it might be the case that the op didn't climb the route. I'd just reassign it to someone who has. Just let me know what you think.
Governor Dodge State Park
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