Devils Lake. Perverted Inspiration. Leaves with a ...
Description
I chose to start with the same beginning as "Whipping Boy" as this adds an additional 15ft of climbing. Once through the initial 15ft continue diagonally up and right to the obvious ledge. From the ledge you follow the arete using underclings and insecure climbing to the top. Expect the climbing to get harder as you progress with several small cruxes.
Anyone with further information about the route please feel free to PM me.
Location
The arete right of "Whipping Boy"
Protection
Same pro as "Whipping Boy" to the ledge. From the ledge you can place several pieces, but there is scant/marginal pro afterwards to the top with a long run-out and a high potential for decking if one falls.
I am thinking this may be a true first ascent at the lake if you have gotten it from ground up. I have led it but with pre-placed gear in the mid climb and crux area..... so not really a true claim. I think this is one cool route TR or Lead... Give it a name as it doesn't have one in any of the guides I think nor is it even mentioned?? Any one else know anything??
That would be incredible and completely unexpected. I admit the climbing was intense and the crux for me was placing the protection. I'll certainly wait on assuming this to be the case until hearing from more of the experienced climbers at the lake. Thanks for pointing the route out in one of your earlier posts, as you mentioned it's an excellent climb with a very different style than most at the lake.
That throw with your right hand up to the tricky side pull with the left hand up in the undercling (where the only gear is for the crux by the way) and your feet jacked up and smeared as high as you can get them does seem a bit harder then 5.9+ when you think about it. All that on top of doing the initial moves of "Whipping Boy" and then the awkward body tension inducing moves from the ledge up to this crux move doesn't help either. You are probably right Kris about it being 5.10c-ish. I was just thinking that the whole climb doesn't feel as hard as "Whipping Boy" to the left.
It's hard to compare the cruxs of the two as they're very diffrent styles. The 5.9+ required powerful moves imbetween mediorce holds, while Whipping Boy was a delicate climb requiring you trust your feet with small hands. I have to agree with Kryz that the climb felt harder than 5.9. The climb kicked my ass on TR before figuring out the sequence.
Burt -- I think that the move you're talking about is a hard 5.10 but I also think that the Stretcher on Pedestal Buttress is hard 10 (instead 5.9+) for example. So that kinda goes against the way things are rated at the Lake. Great route regardless.
It's incredible the list of heinously sandbagged routes at the lake. I noticed by your photos Burt that we were climbing at the same bluff sat. My initial plan was to lead Dead Tree and Tardis, it's hard to forget seeing that neon green rope. It'd be cool to climb together sometime.
That rope belongs to a friend of mine and yes it sure is "loud". That was such a warm balmy day for early Oct.. Not totally out of the ordinary of course but just felt super warm. We went up to West Bluff originally to do lead routes on "Lost Face" but we couldn't believe the number of wasps flying around on that face... no one wanted to go near it. We ended up skipping around to a few different areas right up until dark. Another super fun day at DL. I will be out this Sat. again. DL climber end of the season get together down at S. Shore pavilion after every one is climbed out.
Prospect Point Rampart
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