North Side 

FA:  Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.6 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 42 page views Submitted By: Paul Huebner on Aug 11, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Climb inside corner and deep awkward crack, which is wide enough at the crux to be considered a small chimney. Easy to protect until you reach the crux. Then the pro is hidden out of view within the small chimney and it can be hard to reach from the stance below. The crux consists of making the committing, and very exposed move out left and up into the crack. After another step up or two, there's a large handhold and a good placement for a #3 Camelot if you think you need since at that point your one step below being able to grab the top of the tower.

Location 

Pretty obvious line up the wide inside corner on the north side of the tower. I usually rap from the top which leaves good anchor in place to clip and then belay your second on up. There's a gully access just north of the tower, but it's steep and usually quite muddy.

Protection 

Mostly nuts, a tricam or two and a #3 Camelot.