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The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked 

5.12a R

   
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FA: First lead: John Scott, 1985
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 597 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 1, 2003


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Tube socks lead


Description 

A popular first 5.12 at the Lake, the route climbs the blank face left of Cracker Jack, between Great Chimney and Lost Face. Start at the toe of the huge flake and make exceedingly desperate moves up a shallow corner. Pass the fixed piton, contemplate a lead of this r/x rated 5.12, remember the security of your toprope, and launch into the upper crux.

Once you execute the hard dyno, you may be surprised to find that the crux is moving your feet up. At any rate, the view of the Lake is spectacular, and you have just become a hero to the gaggle of tourists watching you from near Lost Face.


Protection 

Usually toproped. A fixed knifeblade halfway up begs for a lead ascent.



Add Photo Photos of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked
Dave Groth on lead

Dave Groth on lead

Old school trad

Old school trad

the good, the bad, the JACKED

the good, the bad, the JACKED

Another perspective of TGTBTJacked.  Jerry working the thin left-ward pulls to reach the nice big side pull that's just below the big gigantic throw.....<br />Actually-I think he has the big side pull- is chalk'n and suck'n it up for the big throw....

Another perspective of TGTBTJacked. Jerry working...


Add Comment Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked
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By Jeremy Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 6, 2006
rating: 5.12c

Dave Groth originally rated this route 12b/c. I would have to agree with him on this one. Just so ya'll know. Definitely one of the coolest 12s at the lake. I would go ahead and give it 4 stars because of the moves and positioning.

By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Oct 25, 2006

First lead by John Scott in 1985. Exciting lead deserves an R rating.