By Doug Hemken From: Madison, WI Jul 5, 2007 rating: 5.10
Better than it looks.
Looking at it from the base, you figure the traverse will be the crux. The traverse is height and wingspan dependent. Finding the right crimps could be tough. Once you have the hand jams, you think its over ... think again!
how can this climb get a 5.8 rating??!!!! this is the hardest 8 in the world!! on my first attempt and failure......i was told it was a 10, that traverse isn't easy people.
Oh god. I hated this climb. I tried for an OS and was totally punched in the balls by this sandbag. The traverse to the vert crack is totally height dependent, I was fine but anyone shorter than 6ft is screwed. Then, locking off hard with no feet, I went for a jam, which was solid but hurt like hell on which I fell. I TR'd it by laybacking the vert crack but that would have required placing the gear blind. AND THEN, I sliced up my knees in the chimney above. Oh, did I mention that the whole thing was slimy today. I thought it looked cool, but it climbs poorly. Fuck this pile of poop.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Aug 26, 2009
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