This formation varies in difficulty, both in the climbing and the ability to protect. South edge (grabbing the edge is off) is a balancy slab with many high steps, as you move north the climbing gets easier and the pro gets better. Either route comes back to the left (south) to pass through the small roof at the top. On lead, the climber is looking at a fall onto the slab until well past the roof and into the finish moves. While these moves are easy, the fall potential should not be taken lightly....
Protection
Small nuts (#3-5) brassies, small cams (.3 & .4) camalot, tricams (pink to 1st blue), #3.5 camalot up high, maybe a few medium nuts higher, long runners will help with rope drag, or use two ropes to shorten potential falls.
Beware of the loose talus in the area!While hanging out at the base of these climbs I steped on a rock & it moved(Right under the #5), I lost my balance. Then while trying to break my fall I reached out to grab the rock but only 1 finger caught hold, the rest slipped on by.
All my weight went on the one finger and it snapped!
LOUD!
I set it right there and suffered the rest of the weekend...Monday the doc said" Wow what a good job you did setting that thing, I don't need to do a thing". Thcharged me $75 bucks for nada..........
By Doug Hemken From: Madison, WI Aug 1, 2005 rating: 5.6
There is gear on the lower part, but mostly very small cams (Aliens) and very thin nuts or micronuts. Classic Devils Lake leading problem: small gear placed shallowly, so don't fall far or to the wrong side of your gear!
Misery Rocks
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