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Bird-Foot Buttress
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American Dream Roof 
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American Dream Roof 

5.10d

   

FA: Probably some old-school CMCer
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Views: 149 page views

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2007


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How could you not want to climb this?


Description 

There was a photo of American Dream Roof that hung above the bar at the now-defunct Conway's Pub. Inspired by the photo, many beer addled climbers hatched plans to hike out and climb ADR only to see those plans evaporate when the hangover set in. If you do make it out there, ADR is a must-do DL lead.

American Dream Roof climbs the conspicuous overhang on the right side of the buttress. Start up the easy inside corner and traverse to the roof. From here, place your entire rack of cams under the roof (when I first led it, I placed 5 cams) and climb, using dynamic moves, to the top.

Though it is possible to stop and place gear above the roof, I thought it added too much difficulty to be worth it, but make your own call. ADR is basically a boulder problem protected by a bunch of gear that you put in from a great stance; therefore, it may be the easiest 5.10 lead at DL.


Protection 

Finger sized cams.



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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 5, 2007

F.A. : Rich Bechler and some DLFA losers circa 1982. Rich led this and we then all promptly led it on his gear. Fun route even if it is abit short.Rich later went back and did a direct start?
The crags and bouldering in this area make for some pretty fun exploring and cragging. The trail/road on top was also fun mtn. biking. peace and f-nes