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The High Life 

5.11b

   

FA: Jay Knower, 2009
New Route: Yes
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Views: 179 page views

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jul 4, 2009


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The High Life is shown in yellow. The High Life Di...


Description 

The High Life climbs an independent line between Dancing Madly Backwards Direct and Curving Crack. Start on juggy, steep climbing left of Curving Crack and climb to a ledge. Next, move onto the thin, lower-angled face. This is the crux for many. Resist the urge to use holds on Dancing Madly Backwards.

Once past the thin crux, head up and right under a shallow overhang, pull the overhang by using a cool sequence involving a lock-off on a slopey pocket. Climb slopey horizontals to the top. Make sure to stay on the face--the right corner is out of bounds for the whole route.

It's possible to link the wall of Dancing Madly Backwards Direct into the crux of The High Life, thereby producing The High Life Direct, a 5.11c crimping exercise.


Protection 

Toprope. It could be led using the DL in reach rule.



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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 4, 2009

This is a great line. The movement is really good. Needs to see more traffic now that it is pretty clean. Nice eye Jay.

By Paul Campbell
From: Menomonee Falls, WI
Jul 5, 2009

Fun line, the crux for me ended up being the "nipple" traverse into the lockoff on the slopey pocket.

After it gets a bit cleaner definitely 3-stars.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 5, 2009

Nice Jay!!