Kris, this looks to me like Tarantula. Sepsen Wall goes up through the notch on the far left of the photo.

I'd second that...

Darn, I remember being told that it was 5.12, it was hard as heck and I was in a decent shape. My mistake, Jay -- please delete this photo.

I belayed Kris on his attempt on the route shown. It started on Tarantula and then cut right over the big roof with a bolt for pro. We later did Tarantula staying in the corner, then traversing right up higher. Anyway, the route he tried was very hard and no one present was able to complete it. I looked at Swartling's guide to Devil's Lake, which seems to describe the one he tried as being Uberschmitt. However, the description in the guidebook doesn't match up with the description for Uberschmitt on this website and that was my only visit to the area, so perhaps the guide is wrong and we were on a different route altogether. Obviously it's not Sepsen Wall, but does anyone have an idea what route it is?

Looking closer, I don't think it's Tarantula. This is definitely not Ubershmitt either. I think Kris is trying a variation between Tarantula and Gargantua. I'm not sure about the bolt (piton?) since I have never seen one there. Does anyone have any info about this variation?

I have seen the piton, and I've often wondered what it was for. While I've never been on Tarantula, I always thought it went up to the higher roof, then came right into the Gargantua crack. On Gargantua, I don't get anywhere near the pin until after pulling the roof, and then it's at my feet and worthless. I'll have to try this "Targantula" variation the next time I'm out there...

I was there over the weekend of the 4th and noticed the piton to the right of Tarantula, I figured it was some sort of variation to Gargantua but couldn't find anything about it in Swartling's book. Ubershmitt goes up the larger overhang to the left of Tarantula. New variation in the making, must've been pretty hard.